Kimono Tsumugi Oshima, Silk, Island Of Amami-oshima, Japan, Before 1950, Very Good Condition

Oshima Tsumugi kimono in wonderful silk measuring 131 cm wide by 156 cm long.
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The Oshima Tsumugi workshop in the north of the island of Amami-Oshima continues ancestral know-how in the manufacture of beautiful silk kimonos. Established in an idyllic setting at the foot of the mountain, its artisans continue to use natural elements for dyeing and traditional weaving techniques as in the past. Ori Jime, a process unchanged for 1300 years The Oshima workshop on Amami - Oshima remains faithful to a traditional technique imported from China on the island of Okinawa, then on the Amami islands from the 8th century. Clothing woven from silk thread, called "Tsumugi", was formerly reserved for the entourage and family of the king of RYUKYU, then later for members of successive feudal governments. The inhabitants were not allowed to wear them, they only used them to pay taxes due to their masters. It was not until the Meiji era at the end of the 19th century. that these sought-after handcrafted creations become more affordable kimonos and are distributed throughout Japan. Since the beginning of the 20th century and the increase in demand, many improvements have been made in the production line, but it remains artisanal. Techiki wood, cut into small pieces, is immersed in large cauldrons brought to a boil. The silk threads are then soaked in the cooled mixture, then dried in the sun (step repeated 15 to 20 times). The dark red color thus obtained, then evolves into dark grays or blues by the immersion of the wires in different types of sludge taken from the banks of a rice field. These sludges, by their high iron concentration, make it possible to tint but also to fix the color on the silk. The indigo hue is obtained from the leaves of Persicaria tinctoria. The rectangular bands of tsumugi fabrics, very resistant and wrinkle-resistant, are used to make kimonos with various patterns: simple stripes, chains, crosses, turtle scales ... After weaving and assembly for weeks, the sale price of these coins can reach several hundred thousand yen. These are often already booked in advance by wealthy clients in the capital.