Victorian-era Sentiment Brooch In Gold, Black Enamel, And Braided Hair – 19th Century

A delicate Victorian-era sentiment brooch, dating from the second half of the 19th century, likely of English origin, crafted in 375/°° yellow gold (9 KT, clover hallmark).

Oval in shape and elongated, it features in its center a fine braid of hair preserved under glass, surrounded by a delicate band of yellow gold and then a border of black enamel. Small, chiseled gold leaf motifs, arranged symmetrically at the ends, harmoniously complete the composition.

Very fashionable in the 19th century and particularly during the Victorian era, jewelry containing hair belongs to the tradition of sentiment jewelry. Preciously preserved and crafted, the hair served as a tangible and lasting reminder of the person to whom it had belonged. While it was frequently associated with mourning and memorial jewelry, it could also symbolize an emotional, familial, or romantic bond and be exchanged as a token of affection. In the absence of a funerary inscription, it therefore seems more accurate to consider this brooch as a piece of sentiment jewelry rather than attributing it exclusively to the realm of mourning.

The composition is particularly well-balanced: the contrast between the black enamel, the warmth of the yellow gold, and the natural shades of the braiding highlights the meticulous craftsmanship of the hair. The domed glass further accentuates the precious nature of this small, intimate reliquary, while the gold leaf motifs adorning its ends lend lightness and refinement to the piece as a whole.

Its exceptionally small dimensions—just 2.75 cm long by 1.11 cm wide—are now one of its main assets. Discreet and very easy to wear, this small brooch can be pinned to the lapel of a jacket or coat, on a blouse, dress, or cardigan, as well as on a hat, scarf, or any other textile accessory. Its small size thus allows for multiple uses and makes it easy to incorporate this Victorian piece of jewelry naturally into a contemporary outfit, whether worn alone or paired with other brooches.

The piece shows some signs of age consistent with its history: a tiny chip in the enamel within the thickness of the border, invisible when viewed from the front and not visible when worn, as well as a small chip on the edge of the glass, which is also imperceptible once the piece is worn. These details are noted for the sake of accuracy and do not detract from the overall aesthetic or the clarity of the design.

On the reverse, the brooch retains its original fastening system with a long pin, characteristic of 19th-century brooches.

Gross weight: 3.22 g

Condition: imperceptible micro-scratches, good overall condition; a tiny chip in the enamel, not visible from the front or when worn; small chip along the edge of the glass, imperceptible when worn.

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Our reference: ES5906