Napoleon III-era Agate And Onyx Cameo Ring In Rose Gold

Ring from the second half of the 19th century, crafted in 750/°° rose gold (18 KT, eagle-head hallmark), adorned with a cameo engraved in a two-layered agate on an onyx base depicting the profile of an ancient warrior, possibly the god Mars.

The figure is depicted wearing a helmet, with a beard, and clad in a breastplate. The finesse of the carving is evident in the rendering of the crested helmet, the curls of the beard, the drapery, and the armor’s ornamentation. Notably, a small mask in relief appears on the shoulder, likely inspired by the ancient gorgoneion—a protective motif depicting the head of Medusa and traditionally associated with the armor of deities, heroes, and emperors.

This iconography is fully in keeping with the neo-classical style that characterized the decorative arts of the Second Empire. During the reign of Napoleon III, archaeological discoveries and a renewed fascination with Greek and Roman civilizations indeed spurred a significant revival of cameos and jewelry inspired by antiquity.

The engraving features a beautiful relief, accentuated by the natural contrast between the white layer of agate and its black background, which clearly highlights the figure’s silhouette and details.

The cameo is set in a rectangular rose gold mount with rounded corners and particularly understated lines. Its clean-lined setting and openwork double-band ring give it a more modern look than the oval, heavily ornamented settings commonly found during that period. This lightweight, architecturally designed structure fully showcases the engraved stone while ensuring a comfortable fit.

The ring is in good overall condition. Slight wear from long ago is visible along the thickness of the figure’s nose. It remains discreet, especially when worn, and does not alter either the general outline or the clear visibility of the profile.

A ring full of character, representative of the 19th-century fascination with antiquity, remarkable for the richness of its iconography, the contrast of its agate, and the elegant simplicity of its setting.

Gross weight: 8.34 g

Condition: imperceptible micro-scratches from wear on the gold, slight chip in the thickness of the cameo’s nose that is imperceptible when worn

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Our reference: ES10225