Prestige Shirt And Matching Leg Warmers

Probably Lakota (Oglala or Sicangu), Great Plains

Circa 1880–1900

Deer hide, glass beads, human hair, plant fibers, and leather.

Formerly in the Bernard Souteyrand Collection.

Price: €58,000

Some works need no introduction as rarities: their mere presence is enough to establish their significance.

This outfit belongs to that category.

Preserved with its original shirt and leggings, it forms an ensemble of remarkable aesthetic and technical coherence, demonstrating a level of craftsmanship rarely found on the market.

The eye is immediately drawn to the balance of the composition: the large panels of white beads, punctuated by midnight blue, green, yellow, and red geometric motifs, interact with the naturally colored deer hide, while the long strands of human hair and the fringes enliven the silhouette with an almost sculptural presence.

But the true quality of this outfit lies not only in its appearance.

As one examines the piece more closely, a more subtle aspect becomes apparent: its construction.

The beaded panels are assembled with exceptional precision. The seams, of great finesse, are almost imperceptible. The edges of the leather have been prepared with extreme care, the joins are remarkably even, and the various assembly techniques demonstrate a perfect mastery of the craft.

The methods used to secure the strands of hair, the leather fasteners, the internal stitching, the panel assemblies, and the overall consistency of the workmanship reflect a particularly elaborate process, rarely documented in publications devoted to the clothing of the Great Plains.

Furthermore, the ensemble exhibits remarkable uniformity in the patina of the leather, beads, stitching, ties, and various decorative elements, attesting to a shared history and particularly satisfactory preservation.

Cautiously attributed to the Lakota people (Oglala or Sicangu) and dated to the late 19th century, this outfit is part of the tradition of prestige garments from the Great Plains. While certain features are reminiscent of the shirts associated with prominent figures in Lakota society, any interpretation remains deliberately cautious and is based on a comparative analysis with North American public collections.

This piece is presented first and foremost for what it objectively is: a ceremonial garment of exceptional craftsmanship, combining in a single item a remarkable state of preservation, first-rate technical execution, and an ancient provenance.

More than just a collector’s item, it serves as a genuine material record of the artistry of Great Plains artisans in the late 19th century.

Documentation

An extensive photographic portfolio is available upon request. It includes, in particular, detailed views of the outfit’s construction, the beaded panels, the stitching, the systems for attaching the strands of hair, the internal assemblies, and the various technical elements.

This documentation is reserved for institutions, museums, researchers, and collectors wishing to study the work in depth.