Taffeta Dress With Detachable Crinoline — France, Second Empire, Circa 1865

Circa 1860–1865
France—Second Empire period

A convertible dress in striped cream taffeta, consisting of a skirt with a train and volume flaring out toward the back, and two bodices buttoned at the front; the ensemble dates from the height of the French Second Empire. One bodice for daytime wear, featuring a crew neck and long, elbow-length sleeves, as well as a boned bodice for evening or ball wear with a deep neckline adorned with lace and small puff sleeves. Greek-style facings on the elliptical skirt, featuring blue velvet panels embellished with blonde lace.  The ruffled belt features a large bow at the back. Blue satin buttons (two buttons are missing from the day blouse). Both bodices are lined with cream-colored glossy cotton chintz. The skirt is unlined except for a wide strip of white tarlatan. A few water stains on the taffeta, which is very durable and has no holes; this flaw is reflected in the price. Some blonde lace is missing from the velvet panels. In good condition despite a few flaws. Convertible dresses are rare!

Dimensions: Equivalent to French size 36–38. Both bodices: Shoulders 37 cm, bust 98 cm, waist 61 cm. Skirt: Front length 105 cm, back length 150 cm, waist 62 cm, skirt hem 480 cm.

Starting in 1859, dress styles evolved toward a more open cut. The crinoline frame became elliptical or flared, projecting the fullness of the skirts—often with trains—backward. To maintain a flattering silhouette despite the excessive length of the skirts, the front of the skirts was flattened using various forms with different structures of hoops or steel rods, known as crinoline frames.