Wool Crepe Coat Embroidered With Cornely Needlepoint, Printed Lining From Atelier Martine - France 1920

Circa 1920, France. A beautiful winter coat by an unidentified designer, made of chocolate-colored wool crepe, embroidered using the Cornely technique, dating from the early Art Deco period in France. It has a long, loose, tubular, double-breasted cut with a large smoked Bakelite button. It features a stand-up collar and slightly puffed sleeves at the wrists. The two-tone Cornely machine embroidery was avant-garde at the time, widely used, notably by the House of Jeanne Lanvin. The printed cotton sateen lining is reminiscent of the creations of Paul Poiret's Atelier Martine, which was briefly under the direction of Raoul Dufy. Note the naivety of the motifs and the use of the rose, the symbol of the House of Poiret. Two paisley-style printed cotton panels appear to have been added later to the collar. There are no holes or stains, except for a tiny watermark on the back. Good overall condition in terms of color and preservation. Dimensions: Equivalent to French size 36. Length 125 cm, shoulders 40 cm, sleeves 59 cm, chest 87 cm, waist and hem 100 cm.