Pair Of Prestigious Beaded Loafers From The Great Plains

Lakota (Teton Sioux), with possible Cheyenne influence

Circa 1890–1900

Deer hide, antique polychrome glass beads, large coral-orange glass beads, metal cones (tinkling cones).

A remarkable pair of prestige moccasins from the Great Plains, made in the late 19th century from carefully prepared deer hide and entirely adorned with an exceptional design of antique glass beads. The beading, of remarkable density, covers almost the entire visible surface of the shoe and attests to one of the most accomplished technical mastery in the women’s art of the Great Plains peoples.

The perfectly balanced geometric composition features a large central emerald-green motif framed by white panels enlivened by red and blue chevrons, all highlighted by a polychrome border of great finesse. The craftsmanship reveals remarkable regularity in the rows of beads and perfect mastery of the stitching, characteristics of the finest Lakota works from this period.

One of the most remarkable features is the long, horseshoe-shaped side tabs, which retain their original pendants composed of metal cones (tinkling cones) and large coral-orange glass beads. This design, rarely preserved in such good condition, gives this pair an exceptional aesthetic character.

The design features over 30,000 antique glass beads, each sewn on individually. Such a creation required countless hours of work as well as a thorough mastery of the sewing and decorative composition techniques passed down within the Great Plains communities.

The leather displays a superb antique patina. The soles, entirely original, show even wear that is perfectly consistent with historical use. The stitching is original, and the beading remains exceptionally complete, with no visible major restoration, representing an uncommon state of preservation for this type of object.

Far more than mere footwear, these moccasins were objects of prestige reflecting both the social status of their owner and the skill of the artisan who crafted them. They illustrate the excellence achieved by the art of beadwork in Lakota societies at the end of the 19th century.

Given their quality of craftsmanship, their remarkable state of preservation, the complete preservation of their original pendants, and their striking aesthetic presence, this pair can be considered one of the finest examples of Great Plains textile art still held in private hands.

Provenance:

Former Bernard Souteyrand Collection (1943–2025).

Comparisons:

Comparable examples are held at the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian, the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston, the Saint Louis Art Museum, and the National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum.