Men's Black Silk Formal Jacket (haori Kuro-montsuki) – Japan, 20th Century

A traditional Japanese haori-style jacket, designed to be worn over a kimono. This style is a ceremonial garment known as kuro-montsuki, representing the highest level of formality in Japanese men’s attire. The garment exemplifies the iki aesthetic (understated elegance), characterized by a rigorous simplicity in its black exterior, contrasting with a richly crafted lining.

Heraldic and Iconographic Analysis

• Coat of Arms (Kamon): The garment is adorned with white crests, applied in reserve, traditionally arranged on the back and sleeves. The motif depicts a circular, four-lobed emblem, identifiable as a Maru ni Mokko (cross-section of a melon), a classic heraldic symbol in Japan.

• Inner Lining (Gakuura): The interior reveals a complex polychrome composition, using the yosegire technique (patchwork effect). The lining juxtaposes scenes of river landscapes, geometric patterns (shima stripes and koshi grids), and stylized shapes reminiscent of uchiwa fans.

Technical Specifications

• Material: Black habutae silk, prized for its matte finish, density, and impeccable structural integrity.

• Technique: Deep black dyeing, resist-dyed areas for the crests, lining with printed/dyed patterns.

• Period: 20th century (Shōwa period).