Chanel's Ford, Gabrielle Chanel's 'little Black Dress' In Black Wool Jersey, Circa 1970

Circa 1960-1970, France. Rare "Little Black Dress" by Gabrielle Chanel Haute Couture in black wool jersey, dating from Mademoiselle Chanel's final years before 1971. Labeled and numbered 39634, it comes from the haute couture collections between 1969 and 1971. This is a true classic, dubbed "Chanel's Ford" in the 1920s by President Henry Ford. Here, this classic design plays on feminine ease and codes borrowed from menswear with the tuxedo and black and white color scheme. A straight, simple dress, it features a crossover front with a zip and hooks at the shoulder, long shaped sleeves, and cuffs in white silk ottoman, accented with four knitted-style gold brass buttons. The cut features vertical topstitching that unfolds into couture pleats in the skirt from the hips. A matching low-rise belt with loops, lined in grosgrain ribbon, and a buckle engraved on the reverse with the patented SGDG, Sertissage. Black silk taffeta lining for the skirt and a CHANEL label sewn on one side of the bodice with a cotton ribbon on the front inscribed 39634. No flaws to note apart from two or three tiny moth holes that have been stabilized. Very good condition in terms of color and preservation. This dress is wearable given its condition, but primarily a collector's item! Measurements: Equivalent to French size 38/40. Length 111 cm, shoulders 39 cm, waist 92 cm, bust 96 cm, hips 100 cm, sleeves 63 cm. Imagery: Similar model at the Metropolitan Museum of Art - New York - circa 1927, number 1984.28a–c. A design closely resembling Man Ray's photograph immortalizing Coco Chanel in 1935. The "little black dress," one of Chanel's most popular and enduring contributions to women's fashion. In all its layered details, a simple fabric, wool jersey, becomes elegant through superior tailoring technique. Couture details such as exposed seams, carefully arranged pleats, the finely finished skirt hem, and the hand-stitched waistband make this ensemble an example of Chanel's characteristic "poverty of luxury," an expensive interpretation of a simple design made from modest materials. Chanel appropriated tailoring details from riding attire, menswear, and service uniforms in her quest to reduce and refine women's clothing to its simplest and most elegant expression.