Long Shawl With Box - Signature And Mark Of The Shawl Maker - Cut-throat Weaving - Circa 1860

Rare due to its exceptional condition, quality, and the fact that it has been little used and kept in its original box, this long shawl, woven using the cut-throat technique, features a symmetrical and dense design. Within its polylobed black reserve, there is an unidentified embroidered signature in white thread. Interestingly, another white thread embroidered mark is located in the left corner of the upturned and horizontal borders. This is likely the initials or mark of the shawl maker, a practice common from 1850 onwards, allowing manufacturers to distinguish their shawls from the burgeoning industry and trade of counterfeit goods. The horizontal borders have a harlequined selvedge in approximately eight colors, including black and white.

To remedy the fragility of shawls woven using the cut-throat technique, whose warp threads floated on the reverse side and had to be removed to reduce the overall weight, from the early 19th century onward, the various motifs, such as raised and horizontal borders, palm fronds, and certain other designs, were woven separately and then assembled. This piece is an example of this technique, particularly noticeable on its reverse side.

Condition of the shawl : It is in perfect condition, in terms of its structure, the quality of the textile, and the tones, which have been preserved from light by lack of use and storage in a box. The shawl is housed in its original box, complete with small silk cushions filled with "Lubin" mothproofing powder.

Condition of the box : The box shows some internal flaws (torn flaps, stains) and is missing the small silk ribbons used to hold the lid closed. However, the set as a whole remains in very good condition.

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Item dimensions
▪︎ Length : 355 cm
▪︎ Width : 145 cm
▪︎ Width of the raised edges : 10 cm
▪︎ Weight of the shawl without box  : 1.9 kg
▪︎ Weight of the shawl with box : 3.9 kg