France Paris
Beautiful French long Cashmere shawl with polylobed reserve and unidentified signature dating from the beginning of the Second French Empire. Very fine eight-color cut-throat weave on a Jacquard loom. Rich vegetal decoration with polylobed architecture of Indian influence certainly, but revealing here the very great creativity of the French and Parisian school of design. On each slope, three large arcatures in elongated cartouches and long tapered palms loaded with stylized temples. Central reserve with spectacular design on a black background, signature woven in the oriental manner and ovoid variation of curves with illuminations of red and pink circles. Harlequin and fringed borders on both ends. This is a prestigious Parisian manufacturer of the Bourgeois Frères, J. Chanel, Bietry type or simply Maison Hébert fils. No flaws to note, original colors preserved and remarkable finesse. Very good condition.
Dimensions: 160 cm x 343 cm and 6 cm of fringes
Sources: Publications of Monique Lévi-Strauss Emile Frédéric Hébert is the first Parisian Chalier to sign his works at the Conseil des Prud'hommes de Paris in 1852 with a calligraphic signature indicating H Cachemire Pur, thus initiating literary and artistic property by a deposit, ancestor of Copyright. Among the handful of manufacturers and designers who competed at the universal exhibitions of Paris and London in the 19th century, only a few Manufactures followed the example of the oriental signature like the Maison Hébert. This shawl is graphically similar to a work entitled Le Cercle, deposited at the Conseil des Prud'Hommes in 1855 by Emile Hébert, son and successor of Frédéric Hébert.