19th Century Cashmere Shawl. Paris.

Long shawl. Black star reserve. Cut-throat weave. Seven-color weave. Cashmere. Oval black taffeta label. Reference number 56193. Made by Gaussen Ainé. Circa 1860/70. Geometric composition in quarters, constructed on parallel lines. Architectural motif. Vibrant colors. Never washed. One tiny weakness: a small hole the size of a pinhead. Very good condition. Collection. Bibliography: Monique Lévi-Strauss, Cashmeres: La création française. Editions de la Martinière. Page 150: Frédéric Alphonse Calenge, Jean-Jacques Lhonneur, and Constant François Françoise partnered to operate the business and manufacture shawls of the former Gaussen aîné et Cie firm at the latter's headquarters, 1 rue de la Banque, under the name Calenge, Lhonneur, Françoise et Cie, for a period fixed from January 1, 1863, to December 31, 1872. In 1867, they declared that they operated 20 looms in Paris and 45—later 65—in Fresnoy (Aisne). An oval label of black taffeta, bearing the inscription "Mon GenAné & CH, CLF Ce Srs" printed in gold lettering and sewn onto the back of their shawls, attested to their origin. The company was dissolved on October 1, 1871, at which time Calenge and Mahaut formed a company that remained active until 1874. Maxime Gaussen, once again a member of the jury at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1878, signed a report on "Spoulined, Brochéd and Lanced Shawls," which traces the history of the shawl industry. He died in Paris in 1890.