Vintage Kutchinsky 18ct Gold 190g Black Onyx Statement Turban Necklace 28” C1972

A Rare Vintage Kutchinsky 18ct Yellow Gold & Black Onyx Turban Necklace, London, circa 1972

An exceptional and highly distinctive Kutchinsky 18ct yellow gold and black onyx statement necklace, dating to circa 1972 and displaying the bold, sculptural aesthetic for which the celebrated London jewellery house became renowned during the 1960s and 1970s.

Measuring an impressive 28 inches (71 cm) in length and with a substantial gross weight of approximately 190 grams, the necklace has tremendous presence while retaining the fluidity and craftsmanship characteristic of Kutchinsky’s finest work of the period.

The necklace is constructed from numerous fine strands of textured 18ct yellow gold wire, gathered together to form a succession of elongated, softly graduated ribbed sections. Each section is punctuated by beautifully modelled gold knot-form bindings, creating an intricate rope-like effect and giving the entire necklace a wonderfully tactile, almost textile quality.

As the necklace approaches the centre, the gold elements become increasingly substantial, naturally drawing the eye towards the dramatic pendant.

The focal point is a large polished black onyx open-centre pendant, carved in a bold rounded-square geometric form. Its deep, highly polished black surface provides a striking contrast against the rich yellow gold.

Particularly impressive is the pendant’s elaborate gold suspension fitting: a substantial ribbed gold bail terminates in a sculptural, fan-like or turban-inspired gold mount, which sits prominently above the onyx and gives the jewel its unmistakable 1970s character.

The combination of fluid multi-strand goldwork, repeated knot detailing and monumental geometric black onyx creates a sophisticated contrast between organic and architectural forms.

The necklace is stamped “750”, confirming 18ct gold purity, and fastens discreetly with a concealed clasp, preserving the uninterrupted appearance of the design when worn.

Kutchinsky was one of London’s leading post-war jewellery houses and became particularly celebrated for bold, unconventional jewels combining richly textured yellow gold with strongly coloured or contrasting hardstones. This necklace is an excellent example of that highly recognisable design language.

Its impressive 28-inch length and approximately 190-gram gross weight, combined with the scale of the onyx pendant and elaborate gold construction, make this an especially striking example of vintage British designer jewellery.

Whether worn against a simple black dress, eveningwear or as the centrepiece of a jewellery collection, the necklace has exceptional visual impact.

Of particular importance, we also have the matching Kutchinsky black onyx Ring and earrings available separately, presenting a rare opportunity to assemble the corresponding 1972 Kutchinsky suite.

Details

Maker / Designer: Kutchinsky

Origin: London, England

Date: Circa 1972

Period: 1970s

Material: 18ct yellow gold

Hardstone: Polished black onyx

Gold Mark: 750

Length: Approximately 28 in. (71 cm)

Gross Weight: Approximately 190 g

Pendant: Large open-centre rounded-square black onyx pendant with sculptural gold mount

Construction: Multi-strand textured gold with repeated knot-form bindings

Clasp: Concealed / hidden clasp

Style: Modernist / Statement / 1970s British Designer Jewellery

Condition: Very good vintage condition, with light surface wear consistent with age and careful use.

A substantial and exceptionally decorative Kutchinsky jewel, combining nearly 200 grams of 18ct gold and onyx with the unmistakably glamorous, sculptural design of London’s luxury jewellery scene of the early 1970s.