18k yellow gold brooch (750°/°°) representing a turtle. The openwork shell is formed by flowers of different sizes in matte yellow gold and set in their centers with brilliant-cut emeralds. The turtle's eyes are depicted by rubies. Vintage animal brooches occupied a central place in the creation of the great French jewelry houses between the 1950s and 1970s. Van Cleef & Arpels' bestiary, in particular, illustrates this trend toward figurative and playful jewelry, designed to be worn daily. In contrast to Art Deco brooches, often rigid and heavily set with stones, these pieces explore supple, textured forms, where yellow gold is combined with colored stones, enamel or cabochons, in a freer and more narrative spirit.
This brooch was probably made by the Pons workshop which worked for many Houses on Place Vendôme.
French work from the 1970s. Presence of the eagle head hallmark for 18-carat gold and trace of maker's mark.
Dimensions: 4.1 x 2.6 x 1.5 cm
Gross weight: 18.39 grams