Belle époque Convertible Set In Platinum And Diamonds – Bracelet, Necklace, And Tiara –

Belle Époque Transformable Platinum and Diamond Parure – Bracelet, Choker Necklace and Tiara – Attributed to Wolfers Frères, Antwerp

An exceptional transformable parure from the Belle Époque period (circa 1890–1910), entirely crafted in platinum and set with diamonds, designed to be worn in three distinct configurations: as a bracelet, choker necklace or tiara.

The main section features an openwork design composed of a succession of flowing, interlaced motifs, entirely highlighted with diamonds. The quality of the jewellery work extends even to the least visible parts of the mounting, notably the sides of the elements, which are finely engraved.

The exceptional quality of execution is also evident in the construction of the articulations between each individual link. The hinges have been made with extreme precision and are almost completely concealed within the construction. When the bracelet or necklace is laid perfectly straight, these articulations become virtually invisible: the individual links appear to merge into one another, creating the impression of a single continuous line, while the entire piece remains fully articulated and flexible. This discreet technical detail demonstrates the remarkable precision with which the mounting was executed.

One of the principal features of the parure is its ingenious and fully preserved transformable system. Worn on its own, the main section forms a 17.5 cm bracelet.

An additional element, also entirely made of platinum and preserved in the original fitted case, connects to the bracelet by means of its specially designed clasps. Once assembled, the two sections form a 34 cm choker necklace. The various components were manufactured to fit together with great precision, maintaining the visual continuity of the design when worn as a necklace.

A third configuration allows the same jewel to be transformed into a tiara. The parure retains its original rigid silver frame, specifically made to accommodate the bracelet. The bracelet fits precisely into this structure and is secured by an elaborate system of clips and fastenings. The mechanism includes a fixed element and a sliding element, allowing the bracelet to be accurately positioned and securely locked onto the rigid frame. Once assembled, the diamond-set bracelet forms the ornamental front section of the tiara.

This sophisticated construction therefore provides three jewels in one, each configuration making use of the original fittings and mechanisms specifically designed for the parure.

The jewel is set with a total of 125 diamonds, representing an estimated combined weight of approximately 3.41 carats. The central diamond is estimated at approximately 0.25 ct, accompanied by two diamonds of approximately 0.20 ct each and four diamonds of approximately 0.10 ct each. The remainder of the decoration consists of 118 smaller diamonds of approximately 0.02 ct each, distributed throughout the various motifs of the mounting.

The bracelet and its additional platinum section used to create the necklace have a combined weight of 23.8 grams. The rigid frame used for the tiara configuration is made of silver and is not included in this weight.

The parure is preserved in its original fitted case marked “Wolfers Frères – Émile Anthony – Anvers”. The interior of the case has been specifically shaped and fitted to accommodate the individual components of the parure.

As the jewel itself unfortunately bears no Wolfers maker’s mark, it should be described as attributed to Wolfers Frères. This attribution is based on the presence of its original Wolfers Frères fitted case, specifically made and precisely adapted to house the parure and its various components.

The exceptional nature of this ensemble also lies in its completeness. The bracelet, its platinum extension for conversion into a necklace, the silver frame for conversion into a tiara, and the original fitted case have all remained together. For a transformable jewel of the Belle Époque period, the survival of all these original components is of particular interest to collectors.

Characteristics

• Object: transformable parure – bracelet, choker necklace and tiara
• Attribution: Wolfers Frères
• Origin: Belgian work
• Period: Belle Époque, circa 1890–1910
• Parure material: platinum
• Tiara frame: silver
• Diamonds: 125 diamonds
• Estimated total diamond weight: approximately 3.41 ct
• Central diamond: approximately 0.25 ct
• Two diamonds: approximately 0.20 ct each
• Four diamonds: approximately 0.10 ct each
• Smaller diamonds: 118 diamonds of approximately 0.02 ct each
• Articulations: virtually invisible hinges between the individual links when the jewel is laid straight
• Bracelet length: 17.5 cm
• Length as a choker necklace: 34 cm
• Combined weight of the platinum bracelet and necklace extension: 23.8 g
• Transformations: three configurations – bracelet, choker necklace and tiara
• Mounting: finely engraved sides, concealed articulations and integrated fastening systems
• Tiara frame: rigid silver structure with fixed and sliding fastening system
• Case: original fitted case marked “Wolfers Frères – Émile Anthony – Anvers”, specifically fitted for the complete parure
• Maker’s mark: no Wolfers maker’s mark on the jewel itself; attributed to Wolfers Frères on the basis of its original fitted case specifically made to accommodate the parure