{"id":9404,"date":"2018-09-23T14:39:24","date_gmt":"2018-09-23T13:39:24","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/?p=9404"},"modified":"2018-09-23T14:40:22","modified_gmt":"2018-09-23T13:40:22","slug":"robert-goossens-bijoutier-haute-couture","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/robert-goossens-bijoutier-haute-couture\/","title":{"rendered":"Robert Goossens: Le bijoutier haute couture"},"content":{"rendered":"

Robert\u00a0 Goossens fut le \u00ab\u00a0Monsieur bijoux couture\u00a0\u00bb fran\u00e7ais. Il est aux bijoux couture ceux que sont, chacun dans leur discipline Lemari\u00e9 pour les plumes, Lesage pour la broderie ou Desrues pour les parures.<\/p>\n

C\u2019est l\u2019un des grands de la joaillerie.\u00a0 Le bijou-couture par excellence, c\u2019est lui !\u00a0 Il aura cr\u00e9\u00e9 les bijoux des plus grands couturiers et cr\u00e9ateurs de mode du XXe<\/sup>\u00a0si\u00e8cle. Robert Goossens fut associ\u00e9 \u00e0 Chanel, Balenciaga, Gr\u00e8s, pendant plus de vingt ans. Beaucoup d’autres cr\u00e9ateurs font appel \u00e0 la Maison Goossens, s\u00e9duits par l’esth\u00e9tique tour \u00e0 tour baroque, surr\u00e9aliste, pop ou antique. Son grand talent fut de savoir composer avec l’esprit de chaque maison tout en affirmant, au fil des ans, son propre style.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Parure Soleil, Yves saint Laurent r\u00e9alis\u00e9e par Robert Goossens dans les ann\u00e9es 80.
m\u00e9tal martel\u00e9 dor\u00e9 , Sigl\u00e9 YSL.
(c) Galerie Olaf Thomas Proantic.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Robert Goossens\u00a0fut un artisan aux mille comp\u00e9tences, rendant pr\u00e9cieux les mat\u00e9riaux les plus modestes. capable d\u2019anoblir la fantaisie, \u00e0 redonner au bronze, au cristal de roche et \u00e0 la p\u00e2te de verre la beaut\u00e9 et la puissance \u00e9vocatrice des bijoux antiques ou m\u00e9di\u00e9vaux.<\/p>\n

Il na\u00eet en 1927 \u00e0 Paris d\u2019un p\u00e8re fondeur en bronze et d\u2019une m\u00e8re employ\u00e9e dans un th\u00e9\u00e2tre. En 1942, il commence son apprentissage d\u2019orf\u00e8vre-bo\u00eetier chez Bauer, un atelier qui travaille pour la Maison Cartier. Son initiation se poursuit au sein de l\u2019atelier Lef\u00e8vre, toujours pour Cartier. En 1949, devenu artisan \u00e0 domicile, il ex\u00e9cute des commandes tr\u00e8s vari\u00e9es exigeant une grande ma\u00eetrise de diff\u00e9rentes techniques, telles la marqueterie sur ivoire, \u00e9caille et nacre, le travail du bois et du cuir, la sculpture, la peinture ou encore l\u2019\u00e9maillage.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Sa carri\u00e8re \u00ab Haute Couture \u00bb d\u00e9bute en 1948 chez Max Boinet qui travaille pour Dior, Balmain, Fath, Balenciaga, Schiaparelli,\u00a0etc..\u00a0 Sa collaboration avec Max Boinet \u2013 qui ex\u00e9cuta pour Schiaparelli la broche \u0153il imagin\u00e9e par Jean Cocteau \u2013 lui permet de repousser ses limites techniques et esth\u00e9tiques.<\/p>\n

La rencontre fondatrice avec Coco Chanel<\/strong><\/p>\n

Mais parmi ses nombreuses rencontres, se sera celle avec Coco Chanel en 1953 qui aura \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9terminante. Celui qu\u2019elle surnommait son \u00ab\u00a0byzantin barbare\u00a0\u00bb, aimait comme lui, m\u00e9langer la pacotille et le pr\u00e9cieux.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Cette rencontre marquera le point de d\u00e9part d\u2019une v\u00e9ritable collaboration jusqu\u2019\u00e0 la mort de la Grande Dame en 1971. D\u00e8s 1954,\u00a0Robert Goossens participe activement\u00a0\u00e0 la cr\u00e9ation du style byzantin, signature de la maison Chanel. Goossens m\u00e9lange les mat\u00e9riaux pour r\u00e9concilier le baroque avec le bijou fantaisie : m\u00e9tal, perles, p\u00e2te de verre, verre de Boh\u00eame… Il se sp\u00e9cialise, entre autres, dans les sautoirs chers \u00e0 Coco Chanel.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

C’est d’ailleurs apr\u00e8s avoir restaur\u00e9 une croix appartenant \u00e0 Coco Chanel que le cristal de roche est devenu sa mati\u00e8re de pr\u00e9dilection. D’autres th\u00e8mes lui sont \u00e9galement chers : le bronze dor\u00e9, les branches de corail, les gerbes de bl\u00e9\u2026<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

La collaboration avec Yves Saint-Laurent<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\n

Approch\u00e9 par la Maison Saint-Laurent qui souhaite recruter le \u00ab Monsieur Bijou \u00bb de la Maison Chanel, il d\u00e9bute en 1974 chez Saint-Laurent en collaboration avec Loulou de la Falaise qui lui sugg\u00e8re de nouvelles pistes d\u2019inspiration. Ce sera l\u2019Afrique ! Robert se documente et imagine une ligne de bijoux africanistes comme les mod\u00e8les bambous tout en continuant \u00e0 d\u00e9cliner les th\u00e8mes des c\u0153urs et des croix, ainsi qu\u2019\u00e0 r\u00e9aliser des lustres, des tables ou des miroirs. La collaboration est tr\u00e8s fructueuse jusqu\u2019en 2000.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>
Paire de boucles d’oreilles \u00e0 clip en forme de c\u0153ur, cr\u00e9e par Robert Goossens dans les ann\u00e9es 1980.
(c) Les Billes de la Gamine, Proantic.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

En 2005 l\u2019atelier familial Robert Goossens a \u00e9t\u00e9 rachet\u00e9 par la Maison Chanel, qui pu\u00a0 ainsi placer sous son giron ce tr\u00e9sor de savoir faire en voit d\u2019extinction.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Robert\u00a0 Goossens fut le \u00ab\u00a0Monsieur bijoux couture\u00a0\u00bb fran\u00e7ais. Il est aux bijoux couture ceux que sont, chacun dans leur discipline Lemari\u00e9 pour les plumes, Lesage pour la broderie ou Desrues pour les parures. C\u2019est l\u2019un des grands de la joaillerie.\u00a0 Le bijou-couture par excellence, c\u2019est lui !\u00a0 Il aura cr\u00e9\u00e9 les bijoux des plus grands […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":9442,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[298],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9404","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-artistes-createurs"],"yoast_head":"\nRobert Goossens: Le bijoutier haute couture Le Magazine de Proantic<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Robert\u00a0 Goossens fut le \u00ab\u00a0Monsieur bijoux couture\u00a0\u00bb fran\u00e7ais. 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