{"id":407,"date":"2013-02-07T18:15:42","date_gmt":"2013-02-07T17:15:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/?p=407"},"modified":"2017-12-18T09:16:18","modified_gmt":"2017-12-18T08:16:18","slug":"fashioning-fashion","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/fashioning-fashion\/","title":{"rendered":"Fashioning Fashion"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84481772_p.jpg\" data-lightbox=\"gal[407]\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"408\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/fashioning-fashion\/84481772_p\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84481772_p.jpg?fit=300%2C222&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"300,222\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84481772_p.jpg?fit=300%2C222&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84481772_p.jpg?fit=300%2C222&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"alignleft  wp-image-408\" alt=\"\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84481772_p.jpg?resize=210%2C155\" width=\"210\" height=\"155\" \/><\/a>Les Arts D\u00e9coratifs pr\u00e9sente l&rsquo;exposition <span style=\"font-size: 10pt\"><strong>Fashioning Fashion\u00a0: deux si\u00e8cles de mode europ\u00e9enne 1700-1915 <\/strong><\/span>Jusqu&rsquo;au 14 mars 2013<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">L<\/span>&lsquo;exposition c\u00e9l\u00e8bre l\u2019acquisition, par le<strong> Los Angeles County Museum of Art<\/strong> , de deux remarquables collections, celle de Martin Kamer et celle de Wolfgang Ruf, tous deux antiquaires et collectionneurs de costumes et de tissus anciens.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">C<\/span>e patrimoine refl\u00e8te les principaux mouvements de mode en Europe du XVIIIe si\u00e8cle \u00e0 l\u2019aube du XXe. L\u2019exposition \u00e0 la fois chronologique et th\u00e9matique d\u00e9voile, de fa\u00e7on in\u00e9dite pr\u00e8s de cent silhouettes masculines et f\u00e9minines, compl\u00e8tes et enti\u00e8rement accessoiris\u00e9es. Ces pi\u00e8ces provenant essentiellement de France, d\u2019Angleterre et d\u2019Italie pr\u00e9sentent l\u2019\u00e9volution des go\u00fbts en mettant l\u2019accent sur les formes, les d\u00e9tails et les savoirs-faire.<\/p>\n<div class=\"olsen-light-responsive-embed\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Pr\u00e9sentation de l&#039;exposition &quot;Fashioning Fashion. Deux si\u00e8cles de mode europ\u00e9enne, 1700-1915&quot;\" frameborder=\"0\" width=\"665\" height=\"376\" src=\"https:\/\/geo.dailymotion.com\/player.html?video=xxujyf&#038;\" allowfullscreen allow=\"autoplay; fullscreen; picture-in-picture; web-share\"><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">L<\/span>e parcours propose au visiteur quelques clefs de lecture\u00a0: comment appara\u00eet une mode\u00a0? Comment \u00e9tait r\u00e9alis\u00e9 un costume\u00a0? Des vues de d\u00e9tails pr\u00e9sent\u00e9es sur \u00e9cran permettent d\u2019appr\u00e9cier le jeu subtil des fils de cha\u00eene et de trame en soie ou m\u00e9tal, celui des pr\u00e9cieuses broderies et d\u2019autres ornements. Les variations de la silhouette sont, quant \u00e0 elles, mises en lumi\u00e8re avec des gravures de mode.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\"> C<\/span>\u2019est dans un jeu de lumi\u00e8re, de miroirs et de parois courbes, tel un ruban se d\u00e9roulant de vitrine en vitrine, que les \u0153uvres sont d\u00e9voil\u00e9es dans une sc\u00e9nographie sign\u00e9e par Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Beauclair.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_412\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-412\" style=\"width: 334px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485409_p.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"412\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/fashioning-fashion\/84485409_p\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485409_p.jpg?fit=334%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"334,450\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Robe \u00e0 la fran\u00e7aise\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Robe \u00e0 la fran\u00e7aise, Angleterre,&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;Satin et fa\u00e7onn\u00e9 de soie, vers 1765&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485409_p.jpg?fit=222%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485409_p.jpg?fit=334%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"size-full wp-image-412\" alt=\"deux si\u00e8cles de mode europ\u00e9enne \" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485409_p.jpg?resize=334%2C450\" width=\"334\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485409_p.jpg?w=334&amp;ssl=1 334w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485409_p.jpg?resize=222%2C300&amp;ssl=1 222w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 334px) 100vw, 334px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-412\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robe \u00e0 la fran\u00e7aise, Angleterre,<br \/>Satin et fa\u00e7onn\u00e9 de soie, vers 1765<br \/>\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">L<\/span>\u2019exposition s\u2019ouvre sur la mode du XVIIIe si\u00e8cle, faite d\u2019influences r\u00e9ciproques et nourrie d\u2019\u00e9changes incessants entre l\u2019Orient et l\u2019Occident. La mode se pare alors de chinoiseries, de turqueries et de broderies ou toiles venues d\u2019Inde. Une robe au d\u00e9cor de petits Chinois et arabesques ainsi qu\u2019un banyan illustrent cette th\u00e9matique qui r\u00e9pond tant \u00e0 la vision fantaisiste de l\u2019exotisme qu\u2019\u00e0 celle de l\u2019\u00e9volution des pratiques commerciales.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">L<\/span>a typologie des robes et des habits en cette fin du XVIIIe si\u00e8cle oscille entre la pr\u00e9dominance de la France avec la solennit\u00e9 des v\u00eatements de Cour et l\u2019influence des Anglais et de leur \u00e9l\u00e9gante simplicit\u00e9. Ainsi une somptueuse robe \u00e0 la fran\u00e7aise pr\u00e9sent\u00e9e sur un corps \u00e0 baleines et des paniers \u00e0 l\u2019impressionnante envergure s\u2019oppose \u00e0 une robe \u00e0 l\u2019anglaise plus courte et plus confortable.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_413\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-413\" style=\"width: 353px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485527_p.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"413\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/fashioning-fashion\/84485527_p\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485527_p.jpg?fit=353%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"353,450\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Corsage anglais ou de l\u2019Inde\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Corsage anglais ou de l\u2019Inde, vers 1730-1760&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;Toile de lin brod\u00e9 soie&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485527_p.jpg?fit=235%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485527_p.jpg?fit=353%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"size-full wp-image-413\" alt=\"deux si\u00e8cles de mode europ\u00e9enne 1700-1915 \" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485527_p.jpg?resize=353%2C450\" width=\"353\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485527_p.jpg?w=353&amp;ssl=1 353w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485527_p.jpg?resize=235%2C300&amp;ssl=1 235w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 353px) 100vw, 353px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-413\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Corsage anglais ou de l\u2019Inde, vers 1730-1760<br \/>Toile de lin brod\u00e9 soie<br \/>\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">L<\/span>es p\u00e9kins, taffetas, satins fa\u00e7onn\u00e9s ou autres velours cisel\u00e9s, dans lesquels sont taill\u00e9s les costumes pour femmes ou pour hommes, sont pour la plupart r\u00e9alis\u00e9s par les fabriques de Lyon ou de Tours. Ces tissus r\u00e9v\u00e8lent l\u2019exceptionnelle richesse des techniques de tissage. Leur ex\u00e9cution sur m\u00e9tier \u00e0 bras, longue et co\u00fbteuse, en fait des produits de luxe.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">L<\/span>es \u00e9v\u00e9nements historiques et politiques laissent \u00e9galement leurs empreintes dans le domaine de la mode. Ainsi, une robe \u00e0 la polonaise avec son manteau retrouss\u00e9 en trois parties distinctes fait allusion \u00e0 la premi\u00e8re partition de la Pologne, en 1772, entre trois \u00e9tats\u00a0: l\u2019Autriche, la Prusse et la Russie. A la R\u00e9volution fran\u00e7aise, le v\u00eatement devient aussi le support privil\u00e9gi\u00e9 des opinions de chacun comme en t\u00e9moigne, vers 1789, un exceptionnel gilet en maille, brod\u00e9 de messages et motifs symboliques.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_414\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-414\" style=\"width: 253px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485655_p.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"414\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/fashioning-fashion\/84485655_p\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485655_p.jpg?fit=253%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"253,450\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Habit complet, Italie, vers 1810\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Habit complet, Italie, vers 1810&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;Drap de laine et broderie de fils m\u00e9talliques&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485655_p.jpg?fit=168%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485655_p.jpg?fit=253%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"size-full wp-image-414\" alt=\" deux si\u00e8cles de mode europ\u00e9enne 1700-1915\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485655_p.jpg?resize=253%2C450\" width=\"253\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485655_p.jpg?w=253&amp;ssl=1 253w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485655_p.jpg?resize=168%2C300&amp;ssl=1 168w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 253px) 100vw, 253px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-414\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Habit complet, Italie, vers 1810<br \/>Drap de laine et broderie de fils m\u00e9talliques<br \/>\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">E<\/span>n 1804, Napol\u00e9on, sacr\u00e9 empereur des Fran\u00e7ais, r\u00e9tablit les fonctions de la Cour et ses d\u00e9monstrations du pouvoir. Au luxe ostentatoire d\u2019une robe \u00e0 tra\u00eene et d\u2019un habit tous deux orn\u00e9s de riches broderies de fils d\u2019or et d\u2019argent, s\u2019oppose l\u2019apparente simplicit\u00e9 des robes en mousseline blanche. Provenant d\u2019Inde, le coton dans lequel elles sont faites r\u00e9v\u00e8le l\u2019attrait toujours renouvel\u00e9 de l\u2019ailleurs.Les ch\u00e2les cachemire rapport\u00e9s de la campagne d\u2019Egypte font aussi leur entr\u00e9e dans le vestiaire f\u00e9minin.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\"> P<\/span>uis, le style Empire laisse place au courant romantique et ses silhouettes f\u00e9minines blanches et \u00e9th\u00e9r\u00e9es des ann\u00e9es 1820. La taille s\u2019appr\u00eate \u00e0 retrouver sa place naturelle. Toutefois, les manches r\u00e9pondent \u00e0 un go\u00fbt de la disproportion rendue possible par des amplificateurs fa\u00e7onnant les fameuses \u00ab\u00a0manches gigot.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_415\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-415\" style=\"width: 371px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485897_p.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"415\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/fashioning-fashion\/84485897_p\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485897_p.jpg?fit=371%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"371,450\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Robe de cour de Marie II du Portuga\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Robe de cour de Marie II du Portugal, vers 1845&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;Satin, broderie de laine&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485897_p.jpg?fit=247%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485897_p.jpg?fit=371%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"size-full wp-image-415\" alt=\" deux si\u00e8cles de mode europ\u00e9enne 1700-1915\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485897_p.jpg?resize=371%2C450\" width=\"371\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485897_p.jpg?w=371&amp;ssl=1 371w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84485897_p.jpg?resize=247%2C300&amp;ssl=1 247w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 371px) 100vw, 371px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-415\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robe de cour de Marie II du Portugal, vers 1845<br \/>Satin, broderie de laine<br \/>\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">L<\/span>a m\u00e9tamorphose des tenues masculines se traduit par l\u2019adoption d\u2019une ligne sobre et graphique \u00e0 la mani\u00e8re de George Brummell (1778-1840), pionnier du dandysme britannique et \u00e0 l\u2019origine du costume moderne. Le souci du galbe et de la minceur est visible dans une silhouette compos\u00e9e d\u2019un habit sombre \u00e0 revers de velours, d\u2019une culotte moulante de couleur claire et d\u2019un haut de forme.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">L<\/span>e parcours se poursuit avec les ann\u00e9es 1840 et la somptueuse robe de cour port\u00e9e par la reine Maria II du Portugal. En satin noir, enti\u00e8rement brod\u00e9e de lame plaqu\u00e9e or avec une longue tra\u00eene, elle t\u00e9moigne de la persistance du faste des Cours dans une Europe en pleine mutation. Sous le Second Empire, Paris redevient la capitale de l\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gance. Les crinolines r\u00e8gnent en embl\u00e8mes de la mode. Ces cages \u00e0 cerceaux m\u00e9talliques, sont aussi le reflet de l\u2019industrialisation des moyens de production du XIXe si\u00e8cle.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">P<\/span>arall\u00e8lement, le d\u00e9veloppement des chemins de fer incite les citadins \u00e0 voyager. Les tenues de bord de mer font ainsi leur apparition. Elles sont r\u00e9alis\u00e9es dans des mati\u00e8res et des formes se pr\u00eatant au climat et aux activit\u00e9s maritimes sans se d\u00e9partir d\u2019accessoires plus adapt\u00e9s \u00e0 la vie citadine. Un ensemble dit \u00ab\u00a0saute en barque\u00a0\u00bb brod\u00e9 m\u00e9caniquement et port\u00e9 sur une crinoline-cage est un parfait exemple de ces tenues.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_410\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-410\" style=\"width: 262px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482407_p.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"410\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/fashioning-fashion\/84482407_p\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482407_p.jpg?fit=262%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"262,450\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Robe et ch\u00e2le, 1820\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Robe et ch\u00e2le, 1820, gaze de coton brod\u00e9&lt;br \/&gt;\n\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482407_p.jpg?fit=174%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482407_p.jpg?fit=262%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"size-full wp-image-410\" alt=\"Fashioning Fashion : deux si\u00e8cles de mode europ\u00e9enne 1700-1915\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482407_p.jpg?resize=262%2C450\" width=\"262\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482407_p.jpg?w=262&amp;ssl=1 262w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482407_p.jpg?resize=174%2C300&amp;ssl=1 174w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 262px) 100vw, 262px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-410\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robe et ch\u00e2le, 1820, gaze de coton brod\u00e9<br \/>\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">O<\/span>n constate que c\u2019est essentiellement au cours du XIXe si\u00e8cle que le corps f\u00e9minin subit le plus de remaniements successifs et offre une importante vari\u00e9t\u00e9 de silhouettes. Peu avant 1870, la tournure ou \u00ab\u00a0faux cul\u00a0\u00bb remplace la crinoline et accentue la chute des reins. Les drap\u00e9s, glands et franges de passementerie, inspir\u00e9s de l\u2019ameublement, viennent orner ces nouveaux profils.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\"> C<\/span>ette tendance baptis\u00e9e style \u00ab\u00a0tapissier\u00a0\u00bb cohabite avec l\u2019apparition de v\u00eatements cr\u00e9\u00e9s pour les nouvelles pratiques sportives telle une rare robe de tennis anglaise en toile de coton lavable. La garde-robe masculine, quant \u00e0 elle, n\u2019a pas v\u00e9ritablement subi de grandes transformations depuis le d\u00e9but du XIXe si\u00e8cle. Seuls certains \u00e9l\u00e9ments tels le veston dont l\u2019usage se fait plus fr\u00e9quent et le complet ont fait leur apparition.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_409\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-409\" style=\"width: 268px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482284_p.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"409\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/fashioning-fashion\/84482284_p\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482284_p.jpg?fit=268%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"268,450\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Robe, France, vers 1885\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Robe, France, vers 1885, Taffetas de soie&lt;br \/&gt;\n\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482284_p.jpg?fit=178%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482284_p.jpg?fit=268%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"size-full wp-image-409\" alt=\"deux si\u00e8cles de mode europ\u00e9enne 1700-1915\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482284_p.jpg?resize=268%2C450\" width=\"268\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482284_p.jpg?w=268&amp;ssl=1 268w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482284_p.jpg?resize=178%2C300&amp;ssl=1 178w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 268px) 100vw, 268px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-409\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Robe, France, vers 1885, Taffetas de soie<br \/>\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">A<\/span> l\u2019aube du XX<sup class=\"typo_exposants\">e<\/sup> si\u00e8cle, les formes se font plus sinueuses avec la silhouette dite en S, model\u00e9e par un corset au la\u00e7age tr\u00e8s serr\u00e9. Les bottines ou autres cuissardes enti\u00e8rement lac\u00e9es r\u00e9v\u00e8lent le foisonnement de la lingerie et le renouvellement des tenues d\u2019int\u00e9rieur. Le temps est aussi au Japonisme\u00a0: un kimono japonais \u00e0 peine modifi\u00e9 pour le confort occidental fait face \u00e0 une robe de chambre taill\u00e9e et brod\u00e9e en Extr\u00eame-Orient pour le march\u00e9 europ\u00e9en.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_411\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-411\" style=\"width: 322px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482496_p.jpg\"><img data-recalc-dims=\"1\" loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" data-attachment-id=\"411\" data-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/fashioning-fashion\/84482496_p\/\" data-orig-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482496_p.jpg?fit=322%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" data-orig-size=\"322,450\" data-comments-opened=\"1\" data-image-meta=\"{&quot;aperture&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;credit&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;camera&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;caption&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;created_timestamp&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;copyright&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;focal_length&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;iso&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;shutter_speed&quot;:&quot;0&quot;,&quot;title&quot;:&quot;&quot;}\" data-image-title=\"Turban, Paul Poiret\" data-image-description=\"\" data-image-caption=\"&lt;p&gt;Turban, Paul Poiret, port\u00e9 par Denise Poiret, 1911.&lt;\/p&gt;\n&lt;p&gt;\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA&lt;\/p&gt;\n\" data-medium-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482496_p.jpg?fit=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1\" data-large-file=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482496_p.jpg?fit=322%2C450&amp;ssl=1\" class=\"size-full wp-image-411\" alt=\" deux si\u00e8cles de mode europ\u00e9enne 1700-1915\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482496_p.jpg?resize=322%2C450\" width=\"322\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482496_p.jpg?w=322&amp;ssl=1 322w, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/04\/84482496_p.jpg?resize=214%2C300&amp;ssl=1 214w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 322px) 100vw, 322px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-411\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Turban, Paul Poiret, port\u00e9 par Denise Poiret, 1911.<br \/>\u00a9 2010 Museum Associates\/LACMA<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 12pt;color: #ff0000\">V<\/span>ers 1906, Paul Poiret modifie profond\u00e9ment la silhouette f\u00e9minine et impose la ligne droite inspir\u00e9e du Premier Empire, interdisant \u00e0 ses clientes le port du corset. S\u00e9duit par <em>Les Ballets russes<\/em> de Serge Diaguilev, il cr\u00e9e alors tout un univers oriental\u00a0: des jupes entrav\u00e9es, des tuniques et des turbans agr\u00e9ment\u00e9s d\u2019une aigrette comme celui que porte son \u00e9pouse, Denise, lors du c\u00e9l\u00e8bre bal persan intitul\u00e9 \u00ab\u00a0La mille et deuxi\u00e8me nuit\u00a0\u00bb. Cette mode orientaliste se retrouve aussi chez les S\u0153urs Callot comme en t\u00e9moigne un ensemble avec pantalon de harem en charmeuse turquoise. Cette silhouette symbolise \u00e0 elle seule l\u2019\u00e9ternelle fascination europ\u00e9enne pour l\u2019Orient.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Les Arts D\u00e9coratifs pr\u00e9sente l&rsquo;exposition Fashioning Fashion\u00a0: deux si\u00e8cles de mode europ\u00e9enne 1700-1915 Jusqu&rsquo;au 14 mars 2013 L&lsquo;exposition c\u00e9l\u00e8bre l\u2019acquisition, par le Los Angeles County Museum of Art , de deux remarquables collections, celle de Martin Kamer et celle de Wolfgang Ruf, tous deux antiquaires et collectionneurs de costumes et de tissus anciens. Ce patrimoine [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":413,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[12],"tags":[72],"class_list":["post-407","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-expositions","tag-exposition-2"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.9 - 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