{"id":1909,"date":"2014-07-23T13:48:56","date_gmt":"2014-07-23T12:48:56","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/?p=1909"},"modified":"2017-12-18T09:02:18","modified_gmt":"2017-12-18T08:02:18","slug":"lorigine-du-carre-dhermes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/lorigine-du-carre-dhermes\/","title":{"rendered":"L’origine du carr\u00e9 Herm\u00e8s"},"content":{"rendered":"

Le\u00a0carr\u00e9 Herm\u00e8s\u00a0est un foulard\u00a0en soie de forme carr\u00e9e embl\u00e9matique de la maison fran\u00e7aise Herm\u00e8s, fond\u00e9e \u00e0 Paris en 1837. \u00a0L\u00a0\u00bbentreprise \u00e9tait \u00e0 l’origine une manufacture de harnais et de selles.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Tout juste un si\u00e8cle apr\u00e8s la cr\u00e9ation de la soci\u00e9t\u00e9 par Thierry Herm\u00e8s\u00a0, Robert Dumas, directeur d’Herm\u00e8s, r\u00e9alise en 1937 le premier carr\u00e9 \u00a0avec le nom de\u00a0Jeu des omnibus et Dames blanches<\/strong>, inspir\u00e9 d’une sorte de jeu de l’Oie tr\u00e8s populaire \u00e0 l’\u00e9poque. Le carr\u00e9, un foulard en twill de soie de\u00a090×90\u00a0cm est devenu un classique et une ic\u00f4ne de la marque, tr\u00e8s\u00a0rapidement adopt\u00e9\u00a0par\u00a0les\u00a0c\u00e9l\u00e9brit\u00e9s comme\u00a0Jackie Kennedy<\/strong>\u00a0ou\u00a0Grace Kelly<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"Foulard<\/a>
Foulard Carr\u00e9 Hermes \u00ab\u00a0Combats de coqs\u00a0\u00bb
galerie L’art du temps (c) Proantic<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Depuis plus de 75 ans, des centaines de dessinateurs se sont consacr\u00e9s \u00e0 l\u2019invention de motifs in\u00e9dits pour renouveler sans cesse la cr\u00e9ation du carr\u00e9 Herm\u00e8s.\u00a0Avec plus de 1500 motifs\u00a0s\u00e9rigraphi\u00e9s\u00a0imagin\u00e9es \u00e0 ce jour, de nombreuses histoires ont \u00e9t\u00e9 cont\u00e9es, narrant tour \u00e0 tour l\u2019attache d\u2019Herm\u00e8s \u00e0 la mode,\u00a0aux cultures, aux arts, aux traditions…<\/p>\n

Le mouchoir imprim\u00e9, comme accessoire de mode f\u00e9minine indispensable d’une l’\u00e9poque, appara\u00eet au XIXe\u00a0si\u00e8cle. Ce mouchoir, en grandissant se rapproche du foulard, pour devenir \u00e9galement masculin en se transformant en\u00a0\u00ab\u00a0mouchoirs de cou\u00a0\u00bb.<\/p>\n

\"carr\u00e9<\/a><\/p>\n

Les soldats d’alors sont dot\u00e9s de mouchoirs imprim\u00e9s sur lesquels on trouve des motifs militaires, voir des instructions illustr\u00e9es, pour les combattants analphab\u00e8tes. Durant le d\u00e9but de la Premi\u00e8re Guerre mondiale, les motifs imprim\u00e9s sur le mouchoir de cou changent, y compris pour les femmes o\u00f9 ceux-ci prennent une inspiration militaire ou tout du moins masculine. Alors que les manuels d’instruction militaire sont rendu obligatoires vers 1937, les soldats \u00e9tant cens\u00e9s savoir lire, Herm\u00e8s va s’inspirer de cette tradition.<\/p>\n

\"<\/a>
Carr\u00e9 Hermes \u00ab\u00a0ex libris\u00a0\u00bb dans son emballage.
Galerie Cabotse (c) Proantic<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u00c0 l’origine, les illustrations \u00e9taient proches du monde \u00e9questre et de la chasse comme\u00a0Jumping<\/i>\u00a0ou\u00a0La promenade \u00e0 Longchamp<\/i>, pour \u00e9voluer ensuite vers les animaux, les arts, l’\u00e9pop\u00e9e Napol\u00e9onienne, ou l’automobile, th\u00e8mes revenant r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement dans les collections, puis le sport en g\u00e9n\u00e9ral avec par exemple une \u00e9ditions pour les Jeux olympiques d’\u00e9t\u00e9 de 1984.<\/p>\n

De nos jours, les dessins sont tr\u00e8s vari\u00e9s, du plus classique au plus contemporain comme les mod\u00e8les\u00a0En d\u00e9sordre<\/i>, celui \u00e0 base de graffitis et typographie,\u00a024 H<\/i><\/strong>,\u00a0Please check-in<\/i><\/strong>\u00a0en 70\u00a0cm, ou le\u00a0Magic Kelly\u00a0<\/i>comportant<\/strong> une illustration en trois dimensions, un autost\u00e8r\u00e8ogramme\u00a0.<\/p>\n

Tous r\u00e9alis\u00e9s dans les ateliers de la r\u00e9gion lyonnaise de la marque\u00a0et sign\u00e9s \u00ab\u00a0Herm\u00e8s Paris\u00a0\u00bb, les carr\u00e9s peuvent \u00eatre sur des th\u00e8mes classiques comme\u00a0Les Toits de Paris<\/i>\u00a0ou\u00a0Souvenirs de Paris<\/i>,\u00a0No\u00ebl au 24 faubourg<\/i><\/strong>, ou plus exotiques comme\u00a0Kilim<\/i>\u00a0<\/strong>reprenant l’id\u00e9e d’un tapis,\u00a0March\u00e9 flottant du lac Inl\u00e9<\/i><\/strong>\u00a0\u00e0 l’inspiration asiatique,\u00a0Indien Pani La Shar Pawnee<\/i><\/strong>, ou encore\u00a0Perles du Kenya<\/i>.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"<\/a>
Carr\u00e9 Hermes \u00ab\u00a0ex libris\u00a0\u00bb
Galerie Cabotse (c) Proantic<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Technique de fabrication du carr\u00e9 Hermes<\/strong><\/p>\n

Les \u00e9tablissements Perrin tissent la soie depuis plus de 50 ans pour la maison Herm\u00e8s. La soie est r\u00e9ceptionn\u00e9e en fils bruts – en provenance du Br\u00e9sil – puis les fils sont constitu\u00e9s en rouleaux de twill de soie, pr\u00eats \u00e0 \u00eatre imprim\u00e9s.<\/p>\n

Chaque saison, de nouveaux dessins sont cr\u00e9\u00e9s. Les artistes dessinent des mod\u00e8les de carr\u00e9s sur une maquette grandeur nature peinte \u00e0 la main sur carton. \u00a0Les coloristes choisissent les 8 \u00e0 10 teintes qui \u00a0composeront le carr\u00e9, \u00e0 partir d\u2019un nuancier qui compte plus de 75 000 nuances\u00a0issues de 40 \u00ab couleurs m\u00e8res. L\u2019illustration est ensuite envoy\u00e9e aux ateliers de gravure.\u00a0\u00a0Une fois la mise en couleurs des carr\u00e9s r\u00e9alis\u00e9e, les tables d\u2019impression impriment en continu.<\/p>\n

\"Carr\u00e9<\/a>
Carr\u00e9 de soie de la maison \u00a0\u00bb HERMES \u00a0\u00bb , mod\u00e9le \u00a0\u00bb jeux de paille \u00ab\u00a0<\/strong>
Galerie Le Lys et l’Ep\u00e9e
(c) Proantic<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A partir du dessin original, \u00e0 la plume et \u00e0 l\u2019encre de Chine, au pinceau et \u00e0 la gouache, le dessin est d\u00e9compos\u00e9 aux ateliers de gravure\u00a0sur autant de films qu\u2019il y a de couleurs, couleurs qui sont obstru\u00e9e de noir, en vue de la photogravure.<\/p>\n

On d\u00e9passe rarement le nombre de 40 teintes, et, avec le d\u00e9tourage ou \u201cserti\u201d, qui emp\u00eachera les couleurs de se chevaucher \u00e0 l\u2019impression, ce travail \u00a0demande entre huit cents et deux mille heures d\u2019attention… Car de la qualit\u00e9 de la gravure d\u00e9pendra la nettet\u00e9 de l\u2019impression. Chaque film est ensuite encadr\u00e9 dans un ch\u00e2ssis m\u00e9tallique puis enduit d\u2019une g\u00e9latine photosensible selon le proc\u00e9d\u00e9 de la s\u00e9rigraphie.<\/p>\n

\"Foulard<\/a>
Foulard Hermes<\/strong>
galerie Bertrand de Metz-Noblat (c) Proantic<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Pour finir la bande de soie subit plusieurs op\u00e9rations de finition, dit d\u2019ennoblissement, comme le fixage des couleurs, le lavage et le s\u00e9chage. Enfin, le confectionneur effectue le roulottage, les bords sont roul\u00e9s sur l\u2019endroit du carr\u00e9 et cousus manuellement avec un fil de soie.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Depuis plus de 75 ans, des centaines de dessinateurs se sont consacr\u00e9s \u00e0 l\u2019invention de motifs in\u00e9dits pour renouveler sans cesse la cr\u00e9ation du carr\u00e9 Herm\u00e8s. Avec plus de 1500 motifs s\u00e9rigraphi\u00e9s imagin\u00e9es \u00e0 ce jour, de nombreuses histoires ont \u00e9t\u00e9 cont\u00e9es, narrant tour \u00e0 tour l\u2019attache d\u2019Herm\u00e8s \u00e0 la mode, aux cultures, aux arts, aux traditions…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":1934,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[180],"tags":[338,339,321],"class_list":["post-1909","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-arts-decoratifs-proantic","tag-carre-hermes","tag-foulard","tag-soierie"],"yoast_head":"\nL'origine du carr\u00e9 Herm\u00e8s Le Magazine de Proantic<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Depuis plus de 75 ans, des centaines de dessinateurs se sont consacr\u00e9s \u00e0 l\u2019invention de motifs in\u00e9dits pour renouveler sans cesse la cr\u00e9ation du carr\u00e9 Herm\u00e8s. Avec plus de 1500 motifs s\u00e9rigraphi\u00e9s imagin\u00e9es \u00e0 ce jour, de nombreuses histoires ont \u00e9t\u00e9 cont\u00e9es, narrant tour \u00e0 tour l\u2019attache d\u2019Herm\u00e8s \u00e0 la mode, aux cultures, aux arts, aux traditions...\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/lorigine-du-carre-dhermes\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"L'origine du carr\u00e9 Herm\u00e8s Le Magazine de Proantic\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Depuis plus de 75 ans, des centaines de dessinateurs se sont consacr\u00e9s \u00e0 l\u2019invention de motifs in\u00e9dits pour renouveler sans cesse la cr\u00e9ation du carr\u00e9 Herm\u00e8s. 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