{"id":18403,"date":"2026-05-29T15:36:21","date_gmt":"2026-05-29T14:36:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/?p=18403"},"modified":"2026-05-29T15:36:21","modified_gmt":"2026-05-29T14:36:21","slug":"paire-de-velours-gregoire-fin-18eme-siecle","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/magazine\/paire-de-velours-gregoire-fin-18eme-siecle\/","title":{"rendered":"Paire De Velours Gr\u00e9goire Fin 18\u00e8me Si\u00e8cle"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

paire de velours dits \u00ab Velours Gr\u00e9goire \u00bb, productions embl\u00e9matiques de la manufacture de Gaspard Gr\u00e9goire, inventeur fran\u00e7ais actif entre la fin du XVIIIe si\u00e8cle et le Premier Empire, c\u00e9l\u00e8bre pour avoir mis au point l\u2019un des proc\u00e9d\u00e9s textiles les plus myst\u00e9rieux et les plus raffin\u00e9s de son temps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ces deux compositions repr\u00e9sentent des figures f\u00e9minines ail\u00e9es dans un go\u00fbt n\u00e9oclassique directement inspir\u00e9 de l\u2019Antique et des mod\u00e8les diffus\u00e9s sous le Directoire et l\u2019Empire. L\u2019une des figures \u00e9l\u00e8ve une torche flamboyante, tandis que l\u2019autre appara\u00eet dans un mouvement dansant et a\u00e9rien, rappelant les all\u00e9gories antiques ou les g\u00e9nies des arts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Velours Gr\u00e9goire
(c) Antiquit\u00e9s Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Sportis<\/a>,Proantic<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019int\u00e9r\u00eat majeur de ces \u0153uvres r\u00e9side surtout dans leur extraordinaire technique d\u2019ex\u00e9cution.

Gaspard Gr\u00e9goire, n\u00e9 \u00e0 Aix-en-Provence au milieu du XVIIIe si\u00e8cle, d\u00e9veloppa un proc\u00e9d\u00e9 r\u00e9volutionnaire qui stup\u00e9fia ses contemporains. Contrairement \u00e0 une tapisserie traditionnelle ou \u00e0 un velours fa\u00e7onn\u00e9 ordinaire, l\u2019image n\u2019\u00e9tait pas simplement obtenue par le dessin du m\u00e9tier \u00e0 tisser. Gr\u00e9goire intervenait directement sur les fils avant m\u00eame le tissage, selon un syst\u00e8me complexe de teinture et de pr\u00e9paration demeur\u00e9 en grande partie secret jusqu\u2019\u00e0 aujourd\u2019hui, car Gr\u00e9goire d\u00e9truisit ses archives quelques jours avant sa mort \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Velours Gr\u00e9goire
(c) Antiquit\u00e9s Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Sportis<\/a>,Proantic<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Les fils de soie \u00e9taient pr\u00e9par\u00e9s et color\u00e9s avec une pr\u00e9cision extr\u00eame afin que, une fois le velours tiss\u00e9 et coup\u00e9, l\u2019image apparaisse progressivement dans la mati\u00e8re m\u00eame du textile. Ce proc\u00e9d\u00e9 permettait d\u2019obtenir des effets de model\u00e9, de transparence et de d\u00e9grad\u00e9s d\u2019une subtilit\u00e9 exceptionnelle, impossibles \u00e0 atteindre avec les techniques classiques du velours lyonnais.
Le r\u00e9sultat fascina imm\u00e9diatement les amateurs d\u2019arts d\u00e9coratifs : vus de pr\u00e8s, ces velours pr\u00e9sentent une mati\u00e8re vibrante et presque impalpable ; \u00e0 distance, les figures apparaissent comme de v\u00e9ritables peintures flottant dans un fond noir profond. Les carnations nacr\u00e9es, les drap\u00e9s ros\u00e9s et les passages d\u00e9licats entre ombre et lumi\u00e8re donnent \u00e0 ces \u0153uvres une pr\u00e9sence quasi picturale. Certains auteurs du XIXe si\u00e8cle comparaient m\u00eame les velours Gr\u00e9goire \u00e0 des miniatures peintes dans la soie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a>
Velours Gr\u00e9goire
(c) Antiquit\u00e9s Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Sportis<\/a>,Proantic<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Le proc\u00e9d\u00e9 reste aujourd\u2019hui encore imparfaitement compris. Plusieurs sp\u00e9cialistes l\u2019ont rapproch\u00e9 du \u00ab chin\u00e9 \u00e0 la branche \u00bb, technique consistant \u00e0 teindre les fils avant le tissage, mais Gr\u00e9goire poussa cette invention \u00e0 un degr\u00e9 de virtuosit\u00e9 in\u00e9gal\u00e9. Son secret semble avoir disparu avec lui, ce qui explique le caract\u00e8re rarissime et presque exp\u00e9rimental de ces productions.
Sous l\u2019Empire, les velours Gr\u00e9goire connurent un grand succ\u00e8s aupr\u00e8s des milieux aristocratiques et officiels. Des \u0153uvres furent command\u00e9es pour des demeures prestigieuses et certains textiles li\u00e9s \u00e0 Gr\u00e9goire furent conserv\u00e9s dans les collections nationales fran\u00e7aises. Leur esth\u00e9tique raffin\u00e9e correspondait parfaitement au go\u00fbt du temps pour l\u2019Antique, les arts pr\u00e9cieux et les recherches illusionnistes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ces exemplaires illustrent particuli\u00e8rement bien cette rencontre entre innovation technique et go\u00fbt n\u00e9oclassique. Les silhouettes semblent \u00e9merger du noir comme des apparitions lumineuses, avec cette douceur caract\u00e9ristique du velours ancien o\u00f9 la lumi\u00e8re se diffracte dans le poil de soie.
Elles sont conserv\u00e9es dans leurs \u00e9l\u00e9gants cadres anciens en bois et stuc dor\u00e9 \u00e0 d\u00e9cor de palmettes et frises perl\u00e9es d\u2019\u00e9poque Empire ou Restauration, en parfaite harmonie avec le sujet et la p\u00e9riode.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

paire de velours dits \u00ab Velours Gr\u00e9goire \u00bb, productions embl\u00e9matiques de la manufacture de Gaspard Gr\u00e9goire, inventeur fran\u00e7ais actif entre la fin du XVIIIe si\u00e8cle et le Premier Empire, c\u00e9l\u00e8bre pour avoir mis au point l\u2019un des proc\u00e9d\u00e9s textiles les plus myst\u00e9rieux et les plus raffin\u00e9s de son temps. Ces deux compositions repr\u00e9sentent des figures […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":18408,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[574],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-18403","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-lobjet-du-mois"],"yoast_head":"\nPaire De Velours Gr\u00e9goire Fin 18\u00e8me Si\u00e8cle Le Magazine de 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