{"id":2710,"date":"2025-05-22T06:03:53","date_gmt":"2025-05-22T10:03:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/?p=2710"},"modified":"2025-10-14T17:10:31","modified_gmt":"2025-10-14T21:10:31","slug":"chocolate-pots-and-cups-in-the-18th-century-how-to-drink-hot-chocolate","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/chocolate-pots-and-cups-in-the-18th-century-how-to-drink-hot-chocolate\/","title":{"rendered":"Chocolate Pots and Cups: Drinking Hot Chocolate in 18th-Century France"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em><strong>Discover the exquisite tableware and furniture designed for serving hot chocolate in the 18th century, and explore the fascinating history behind its expansion in France. This cross-cultural journey traces the path of American cacao to the tables of France, passing through Spain and shaped by the artistic influence of Chinese and Japanese porcelain and decorative arts.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<p>In <em>Le D\u00e9jeuner<\/em>, a 1739 painting by Fran\u00e7ois Boucher, <strong>a chocolate pot, delicate cups, and a graceful cabaret table<\/strong> take center stage. Two elegantly dressed women\u2014likely enjoying hot chocolate\u2014share the moment with their children. At that time, King Louis XV, then in the prime of his life, was a known chocolate enthusiast. This exotic and luxurious drink had already conquered the courts of Europe, remaining a delicacy reserved for aristocrats and the elite.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2779\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Le-dejeuner-oil-painting-Francois-Boucher-1739.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2779\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2779\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Le-dejeuner-oil-painting-Francois-Boucher-1739-1024x846.jpg\" alt=\"In this oil painting by Fran\u00e7ois Boucher in 1739, the two women sitting at a cabaret table are most likely offering hot chocolate to their children. The waiter is holding a chocolate pot.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"846\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2779\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A close-up of <em>Le d\u00e9jeuner<\/em> by Fran\u00e7ois Boucher in 1739. The two women seated at a cabaret table offer hot chocolate to their children. The waiter holds a chocolate pot. \u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/images.grandpalaisrmn.fr\/ark:\/36255\/15-527465\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">RMN &#8211; Grand Palais (mus\u00e9e du Louvre)<\/a> \/ Franck Raux<\/p><\/div>\n<h2>The Chocolate From Mexico: What Europe Learned From the Aztecs<\/h2>\n<p>Cacao and chocolate were brought back to Spain by conquistadors and missionaries in the 16th century. The Aztecs from Mexico introduced <strong>chocolate (<em>xocoatl<\/em>)<\/strong> to them, even though cocoa consumption is much older and originated with the Mayas in Guyana. For the Aztecs, the cocoa beans were a divine manifestation of Quetzalc\u00f3atl, the Feathered Serpent deity and bringer of knowledge. The beans were used as currency and for a drink served to the nobles.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2783\" style=\"width: 626px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Zouche-Nuttal-Codex-screenfold-Foamed-hot-cocoa-with-blossoms-British-Museum.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2783\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2783\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Zouche-Nuttal-Codex-screenfold-Foamed-hot-cocoa-with-blossoms-British-Museum.png\" alt=\"A possible representation of a foaming cacao beverage with blossoms in the Zouche-Nuttal codex. It is served in a decorated tripod vessel.\" width=\"616\" height=\"509\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2783\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A possible representation of a foaming cacao beverage with blossoms in the Zouche-Nuttal codex, a screenfold manuscript made in the Mixtec region (southern Mexico) between 1200-1521. It is served in a decorated tripod vessel. Public Domain <a href=\"https:\/\/www.britishmuseum.org\/collection\/object\/E_Am1902-0308-1?selectedImageId=50808001\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">The British Museum<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p>In the Eight Decade of &#8220;<em>De orbo novo decades<\/em>&#8221; (relating the Spanish explorations in Central and South America) written by Peter Martyr d&#8217;Anghiera <strong>in 1525, the cacao tree and drink are described as such<\/strong>:<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>This tree [the cacao tree] produces fruits resembling a small almond. When fresh, they have a bitter taste and cannot be eaten, but from them is made the beverage of nobles and the wealthy. When dried, the seeds are ground into a flour, and, when the time comes for lunch or dinner, the servants take wine or water jugs, or handled cups, fill them with water, and add a quantity of this flour in proportion to the vessel\u2019s size. They pour this mixture from one container to another, and churn it by raising their arms as high as they can, only to let it fall back down like rain falling from a rooftop. They repeat this process until a foam rises \u2014 and the more foam the drink has, the better it is said to be. Once the mixture has been agitated for about an hour, it is allowed to rest a little [&#8230;].<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>The Aztecs mixed cocoa powder with chili pepper, corn semolina, and water.\u00a0 <strong>They frothed the drink by repeatedly pouring it between containers or by whisking it with a branch or a small mill (molinillo or swizzle stick).<\/strong> Their hot chocolate recipes and preparation methods significantly influenced the Spanish colonists.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2715\" style=\"width: 444px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Antique-chocolate-cup-Latin-America-coconut-silver-Eric-Martin-Antiques.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2715\" class=\"wp-image-2715\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Antique-chocolate-cup-Latin-America-coconut-silver-Eric-Martin-Antiques-e1743090825185-888x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Antique chocolate mug from Mexico, Guatemala or Central America. Carved coconut mounted on sterling silver in the 18th or 19th century.\" width=\"434\" height=\"500\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2715\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">An antique chocolate mug from Mexico, Guatemala, or Central America in the shape of a carved coconut mounted on sterling silver in the 18th or 19th century. \u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/eric-martin-antiquites\/\">Eric Martin Antiquit\u00e9s<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p>In 1685 when Sylvestre Dufour first published his &#8220;<em>Traitez nouveaux &amp; curieux du caf\u00e9, du th\u00e9 et du chocolate<\/em>&#8221; (New and Curious Treatises of Coffee, Tea, and Chocolate), a native American was represented with a chocolate pot, a whisk, and a goblet. However, their shapes were surely more attuned to the accessories used by the Spanish.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2760\" style=\"width: 381px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Native-American-with-chocolate-pot-and-goblet-1685-Dufour-Treatises-of-coffee-tea-chocolate-Gallica-BNF.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2760\" class=\"wp-image-2760\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Native-American-with-chocolate-pot-and-goblet-1685-Dufour-Treatises-of-coffee-tea-chocolate-Gallica-BNF-542x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"1685 French print of Native American with chocolate pot, goblet and whisk. From &quot;New and Curious Treatises of coffee, tea, and chocolate&quot; by Sylvestre Dufour.\" width=\"371\" height=\"700\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2760\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">1685 French print of a Native American with a chocolate pot, a goblet, and a whisk. From &#8220;New and Curious Treatises of Coffee, Tea, and Chocolate&#8221; by Sylvestre Dufour. Public Domain <a href=\"https:\/\/gallica.bnf.fr\/ark:\/12148\/bpt6k855985n\/f334.item\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">BNF<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<h2>The Chocolate Pots and Preparation of Hot Cocoa<\/h2>\n<h3>The Chocolate Pot in the Preparation Process<\/h3>\n<p>In Europe, one particular accessory has remained inseparable from chocolate consumption for centuries: <strong>the chocolate pot (<em>chocolati\u00e8re<\/em> in French) with a built-in slot in the lid to host a little whisk (<em>moulinet<\/em> or <em>moussoir<\/em>)<\/strong>. In New Spain, the original pots to serve chocolate were in ceramic or copper.<\/p>\n<p>In France, cacao was transformed into a chocolate paste. Chocolate drops or shavings were mixed with water (or milk as favored in Spain). Spices were first added, as done by the Aztecs. The Spanish enjoyed drinking it with honey or sugar, and vanilla, cinnamon, or clove.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2737\" style=\"width: 747px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Cavalier-and-lady-drinking-chocolate-1695-Robert-Bonnard-BNF.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2737\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2737\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Cavalier-and-lady-drinking-chocolate-1695-Robert-Bonnard-BNF-737x1024.jpeg\" alt=\"A cavalier and a lady drinking hot chocolate, a 1695 print by Robert Bonnard. A serving lady is frothing the chocolate with a whisk in a chocolate pot.\" width=\"737\" height=\"1024\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2737\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A cavalier and a lady drinking hot chocolate, a 1695 print by Robert Bonnard (1652-1733). A serving lady is frothing the chocolate with a whisk in a chocolate pot. Public Domain <a href=\"https:\/\/gallica.bnf.fr\/ark:\/12148\/btv1b52517617w\/f1.item\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">BNF<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p>The cocoa mixture was heated in a pot to melt. The challenge with chocolate was to keep it warm and as homogeneous as possible. A quintessential accessory for a smooth, creamy, and frothy chocolate drink was a <strong>wooden frother looking like a mill wheel with small fins<\/strong>. It was inserted vertically in the chocolate pot through a slot and rolled between the two hands, as the print above shows us.<\/p>\n<h3>Different Types of Antique Chocolate Pots<\/h3>\n<p>Hot chocolate could be prepared in different places. If the chocolate drink was prepared in a kitchen or outside (in a garden-party fashion), a <strong>copper chocolate pot<\/strong> with a flat bottom could sit on a stove or a braseiro. Then, it could be poured into a different stoneware, porcelain, or silver pitcher or even directly into a cup, then carried on a tray to whomever needed it.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2741\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Copper-chocolate-pot-18th-century-with-whisk-Boularand-Antiques.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2741\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2741\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Copper-chocolate-pot-18th-century-with-whisk-Boularand-Antiques-1024x512.png\" alt=\"An 18th-century copper chocolate pot. With its flat bottom and long wrought-iron handle, it was ideal to prepare the hot chocolate on a stove. It is still accompanied by its wooden molino.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"512\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2741\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">An 18th-century copper chocolate pot.<br \/>With its flat bottom and long wrought-iron handle, it was perfectly suited for preparing hot chocolate on a stove. It still retains its original wooden molino for frothing the drink. \u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/boularand\/\">Boularand Antiquit\u00e9s<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>During the 18th century, a classic chocolate pot was round-bellied and three-legged in silver<\/strong> (potentially leaving some space below for a small warmer), with a wood or ivory handle perpendicular to the spout, and a removable finial to conceal the opening through which the frother passed. This model didn&#8217;t change much across that century; only the ornaments would vary from Rococo to Neoclassicism, if that. The elegance and refinement of such pieces remind us that drinking chocolate was once a privilege reserved for the few.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2744\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Silver-French-Rococo-chocolate-pot-by-Charles-Spire-Galerie-Verrier.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2744\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2744\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Silver-French-Rococo-chocolate-pot-by-Charles-Spire-Galerie-Verrier-1024x512.png\" alt=\"A silver French Rococo chocolate pot made in 1757-1758 by Charles Spire, a a master silversmith in Paris. It boasts typical rocaille ornaments and an ebony handle.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"512\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2744\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A silver French Rococo chocolate pot made in 1757-1758 by Charles Spire, a a master silversmith in Paris. It boasts typical rocaille ornaments and an ebony handle. \u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/galerie-verrier\/\">Galerie Verrier<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Some chocolate pots were made of porcelain and could be part of larger hot drink services<\/strong>\u2014sets that included cups and saucers, a milk pitcher, a sugar bowl (<em>sucrier<\/em>), and slop bowls, used for serving tea, coffee, or chocolate. Such a set was called a <em>d\u00e9jeuner<\/em> (like the first meal of the day, a favored time for enjoying these exotic beverages); when accompanied by a tray, it was known as a <em>cabaret<\/em> (see the final section of this article for more on <em>cabarets<\/em>). When all the pieces were housed in a fitted box, the ensemble was referred to as a <em>n\u00e9cessaire<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>The Meissen porcelain pot shown below likely belonged to such a set. Its shape closely resembles the one included in the <a href=\"https:\/\/collections.chateauversailles.fr?queryid=db0f1e8d-9b84-4089-8f49-fdfa731dc6ff\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">gift made in 1737 by King Augustus III of Poland to Queen Marie Leszczy\u0144ska<\/a>. However, its decoration\u2014featuring cornflowers\u2014places it in the late 18th century.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2764\" style=\"width: 508px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/late-18th-century-Meissen-chocolate-pot-with-cornflowers-Farella-Frank-Antiques.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2764\" class=\"wp-image-2764\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/late-18th-century-Meissen-chocolate-pot-with-cornflowers-Farella-Frank-Antiques.jpg\" alt=\"A late 18th-century Meissen chocolate pot with cornflowers.\" width=\"498\" height=\"500\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2764\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A late 18th-century Meissen porcelain chocolate pot with cornflowers. \u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/farella-franck\/\">Farella Frank Antiques<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<h2><em>J\u00edcara<\/em> and <em>Mancerina<\/em>: The Original Spanish Chocolate Cup and Saucer Designs<\/h2>\n<p>Regarding the cups and saucers, before moving our interest to France, let&#8217;s focus on the cradle of chocolate consumption in Europe: Spain. The 18th-century Spanish kitchen tiling below displays, with a good dose of humor, the serving of hot chocolate with turrones. One chocolate cup is falling, and a few others are spilling. Drinking hot chocolate was no small risk, especially considering the threat of stubborn stains on fine silk and other luxurious fabrics.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2756\" style=\"width: 418px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/18th-century-spanish-kitchen-tiling-with-hot-chocolate-cups-Museo-Nacional-de-Ceramica-Valencia.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2756\" class=\"wp-image-2756\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/18th-century-spanish-kitchen-tiling-with-hot-chocolate-cups-Museo-Nacional-de-Ceramica-Valencia.jpg\" alt=\"Serving hot chocolate and turrones in 18th-century Spain. Ceramic polychrome tiling for a kitchen.\" width=\"408\" height=\"500\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2756\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Serving hot chocolate and turrones in 18th-century Spain. Ceramic polychrome tiling for a kitchen at the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.cultura.gob.es\/mnceramica\/colecciones\/seleccion-piezas\/ceramica\/panel-servicio-turrones-chocolate.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Museo Nacional de Cer\u00e1mica y Artes Suntuarias &#8220;Gonz\u00e1lez Mart\u00ed&#8221;<\/a>.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The typical Spanish cup is named <strong><em>j\u00edcara<\/em>, a term coming from the Aztec word <\/strong><em><strong>xicalli<\/strong>,<\/em> originally a vessel made of a half gourd used for drinking. It was first coined in Spanish in 1560 by Francisco Cervantes de Salazar in his &#8220;Chronicle of New Spain&#8221;. <strong>However, the shape of the <em>j\u00edcara<\/em> was marked by another exotic drink and culture for Europeans: the Chinese porcelain teacup.<\/strong> At first, such a cup had no handle similar to a goblet. The two handles, as shown in the example below, offer added stability\u2014a particularly useful feature when drinking chocolate.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2717\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Blue-white-porcelain-chocolate-cup-Kangxi-period-Menken-Works-of-Art.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2717\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2717\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Blue-white-porcelain-chocolate-cup-Kangxi-period-Menken-Works-of-Art-1024x632.jpg\" alt=\"A chocolate cup in blue and white porcelain of the Kangxi period (1661-1722). With two loop handles. It originally had a lid.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"632\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2717\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">An antique chocolate cup in blue and white porcelain of the Kangxi period (1661-1722). With two loop handles. It originally had a lid. \u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/menken-works-of-art\/\">Menken Works of Art<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p>Precautions with chocolate went even further when it comes to influencing design. <strong>A special extra-large saucer, a <em>mancerina<\/em>, was created in New Spain in the 17th century.<\/strong> Its name stems from the First Marquis of Mancera, 15th Viceroy of Peru from 1639 to 1648. <em>Mancerinas<\/em> usually are very ornate with nature-inspired shapes: a ribbed scallop, a dove, or a tendril, for instance.<\/p>\n<p>Outside of its size and shape, another specificity of a <em>mancerina<\/em> is the cupholder or &#8216;chocolate stand&#8217;. The saucer catches spilled liquid and helps the drinker avoid burning their fingers on a hot cup. It also serves as a small tray to hold pastries. The stand prevents the cup from tipping over.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2716\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Mancerina-Famille-Rose-porcelain-Qianlong-c-1770-Menken-Works-of-Art.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2716\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2716\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Mancerina-Famille-Rose-porcelain-Qianlong-c-1770-Menken-Works-of-Art-1024x683.jpg\" alt=\"Mancerina chocolate saucer in Famille Rose porcelain. Qianlong period circa 1170. Diameter of 21.6 cm.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"683\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2716\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A <em>mancerina<\/em> chocolate saucer in Famille Rose porcelain. Qianlong period circa 1770. Diameter of 21.6 cm. \u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/menken-works-of-art\/\">Menken Works of Art<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><em>Mancerinas<\/em> were first crafted in silver in colonial Mexico or Peru, and later produced in ceramics\u2014typically earthenware from Alcora in Spain or export porcelain from China.<\/p>\n<h2>From the Royals to the Bourgeoisie, Hot Chocolate Became a Fashionable Drink<\/h2>\n<h3>How It Spread From Spain to France<\/h3>\n<p>Chocolate reached European shores via Spain in the 16th century. In France, it made its royal debut when King Louis XIII married Anne of Austria\u2014a Spanish infanta\u2014in 1615. Along with her entourage of ladies-in-waiting, she brought chocolate to the French court.<\/p>\n<p>Ironically, it was not Anne who popularized the drink, but rather <strong>Cardinal Richelieu<\/strong>\u2014despite his deep suspicion of Spain and his strained relationship with the queen. Influenced by his elder brother, who had a strong taste for chocolate and used it medicinally \u201c<em>pour ses humeurs spleeniques<\/em>\u201d (for his melancholic humors), Richelieu became one of its early French enthusiasts.<\/p>\n<p>History repeated itself when the next French queen, <strong>Maria Theresa of Spain<\/strong>, married Louis XIV in 1660. Like her predecessor, she was known for her deep love of chocolate\u2014and of the king. Some malicious tongues could have suggested, however, that the chocolate comforted her more reliably than her husband, whose affections often lay elsewhere.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2777\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Chocolate-time-18th-century-oil-painting-Alkimia-en-Provence.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2777\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2777\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Chocolate-time-18th-century-oil-painting-Alkimia-en-Provence-1024x512.png\" alt=\"Chocolate time during the early 18th century. A woman is drinking chocolate offered by a man. A female servant is watching the scene. A small dog is present too.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"512\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2777\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">An oil painting depicting chocolate time during the early 18th century. A woman drinks chocolate offered by a man, while a female servant looks on and a small dog begs at her feet. Is the dog merely a symbol of status\u2014or does it allude to fidelity? The gesture of offering chocolate, too, may carry a double meaning. \u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/alkimia-en-provence\/\">Alkimia en Provence<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p>Chocolate was first introduced in Spain as a drug. <strong>However, chocolate raised several religious and medical controversies.<\/strong> The doctors didn&#8217;t seem to agree on the virtues or vices of the exotic ingredient. In France, the letters of the Marquise de S\u00e9vign\u00e9 to her daughter illustrate the back and forth on the subject.<\/p>\n<p>Could a substance so indulgent, offering such pleasure, truly be beneficial to both body and soul? And could it be permitted during the Lenten fast? On these questions, even the Dominicans and Jesuits failed to agree.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Chocolate was believed to be not only restorative but also aphrodisiac<\/strong>\u2014an idea playfully alluded to in the 1695 print shown above in our chocolate pots section, where a man and a woman share a cup of chocolate, a gesture laden with subtle sexual innuendo. As Louis L\u00e9mery wrote in 1702: \u201cChocolate arouses the ardor of Venus.\u201d<\/p>\n<h3>Endorsed by the French Royalty<\/h3>\n<p>At the French court, the royals and aristocrats could drink chocolate alone for breakfast or as a snack. The sophistication of this delicacy made it an ideal offering for social calls, too. Philippe d&#8217;Orl\u00e9ans, regent from 1715 to 1723 until the majority of Louis XV, would invite guests to his morning chocolate. The affluent would have chocolate parties. The drink made its way to the public. The first Parisian shop for &#8220;drinking chocolate&#8221; opened in 1671 (a chocolate house). In 1705, any caf\u00e9 could legally sell chocolate drinks or chocolate ice.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2791\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/The-chocolate-cup-or-Family-of-the-Duke-of-Penthievre-1768-oil-painting-by-Jean-Baptiste-Charpentier-Le-Vieux.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2791\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2791\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/The-chocolate-cup-or-Family-of-the-Duke-of-Penthievre-1768-oil-painting-by-Jean-Baptiste-Charpentier-Le-Vieux.jpg\" alt=\"In 1768, the illustrious family of the Duke of Penthi\u00e8vre (grandson of Louis XIV and Madame de Montespan) who is on the left. Sitting down in the middle, his daughter-in-law, Princess of Lamballe who will later be a close friend to Queen Marie-Antoinette.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"697\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2791\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">This conversation piece, painted in 1768, represents the illustrious family of the Duke of Penthi\u00e8vre (the wealthiest French prince, grandson of Louis XIV and Madame de Montespan), who is on the left. In the center, his daughter-in-law\u2014the Princess of Lamballe, who later became a close friend to Queen Marie-Antoinette\u2014holds a chocolate cup, as do two other characters in this painting. \u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/collections.chateauversailles.fr?queryid=c6d12e97-4fa6-446f-ac75-049a7a4e5179\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Ch\u00e2teau de Versailles, Dist. RMN<\/a> \/ \u00a9 Christophe Fouin<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Louis XV was an avid lover of chocolate and some other earthly sensual pleasures, all good reasons for Madame de Pompadour and Madame du Barry to relish it as well. As written by Menon in 1755 in &#8220;Dinners of the Court or the Art of working with all sorts of foods for serving the best tables following the four seasons&#8221; [BnF, V.26995, volume IV, p.331) <a href=\"https:\/\/en.chateauversailles.fr\/discover\/history\/key-dates\/hot-chocolate-versailles\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">From Versailles Palace Website]<\/a>, <strong>Louis XV&#8217;s hot chocolate recipe was:<\/strong><\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Place an equal number of bars of chocolate and cups of water in a cafetiere and boil on a low heat for a short while; when you are ready to serve, add one egg yolk for four cups and stir over a low heat without allowing to boil. It is better if prepared a day in advance. Those who drink it every day should leave a small amount as flavouring for those who prepare it the next day. Instead of an egg yolk one can add a beaten egg white after having removed the top layer of froth. Mix in a small amount of chocolate from the cafetiere then add to the cafetiere and finish as with the egg yolk.\u201d<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>Similar to previous queens and ministers, Queen Marie-Antoinette had a person dedicated to preparing her chocolate drinks. Her chocolate-maker added, for instance, orange blossom or sweet almonds to the cocoa drink.<\/p>\n<h2>The <em>Trembleuse<\/em>, an Ideal Chocolate Cup in the 18th Century<\/h2>\n<p>Let\u2019s take a closer look at cups, as the French in the 18th century put their distinctive spin on <strong>a design particularly well suited to hot chocolate: the <em>trembleuse<\/em><\/strong>. The name comes from the French verb <em>trembler<\/em>, meaning &#8220;to tremble&#8221; or &#8220;to shake.&#8221; This type of cup was a lifesaver to prevent spills\u2014especially noticeable (and embarrassing) when drinking chocolate.<\/p>\n<p>However, it\u2019s important to note that the <em>trembleuse<\/em> wasn\u2019t used exclusively for chocolate. Conversely, people often enjoyed chocolate using other types of cups as well. Cups were either purchased individually or included in sets.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2789\" style=\"width: 487px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Rococo-Meissen-cup-lid-and-saucer-1740-1760-Rosita-Rapetti-Gallery.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2789\" class=\"wp-image-2789\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Rococo-Meissen-cup-lid-and-saucer-1740-1760-Rosita-Rapetti-Gallery.jpg\" alt=\"An early Meissen chocolate cup, saucer and lid from around 1740-1760. With a naturalistic decor, a rose bud for the lid knob and a branch for the cup handle.\" width=\"477\" height=\"500\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2789\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">This is not a <em>trembleuse,<\/em> as Magritte could have introduced this cup: An early Meissen chocolate cup, saucer, and lid from around 1740-1760. With a naturalistic decor, a rosebud for the lid knob, and a branch for the cup handle. \u00a9\u00a0 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/rosita-rapetti-gallery\/\">Rosita Rapetti Gallery<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p>Regarding the <em>trembleuse<\/em>, we saw with the <em>mancerina<\/em> how <strong>there was first an external device on the saucer of a chocolate cup<\/strong> (a raised rim in reticulated porcelain or silver) to hold the cup.<\/p>\n<p>However, whether due to the fragility of porcelain cupholders, the discouragement of silver following the French sumptuary laws of 1689 and 1709, or simply boundless creativity, there was a shift from adding a separate stabilizing device to instead modifying the saucer itself.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2720\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Imari-trembleuse-cup-lid-saucer-early-18th-century-Bils-Ceramics.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2720\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2720\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/03\/Imari-trembleuse-cup-lid-saucer-early-18th-century-Bils-Ceramics-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"Imari Trembleuse: porcelain cup, lid and saucer with a raised silver rim in the saucer. Early 18th century. 11.5 cm high.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2720\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">An Imari <em>trembleuse<\/em> in the early 18th century: porcelain cup, lid, and saucer with a raised silver rim. 11.5 cm high. \u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/bilsceramiques\/\">Bils Ceramiques<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Thus, what could be done to the porcelain saucer itself? Two options come to mind: a saucer could either be elevated to better cradle the cup or made deeper.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The <strong>Saint-Cloud porcelain manufactory<\/strong> around 1720-1750 (probably even late 17th-century) went for the former option, with an integrated inner rim crafted in porcelain\u2014raised just a few millimeters above the surface of the saucer.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2768\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Saint-Cloud-soft-porcelain-trembleuse-cup-saucer-1700-1750.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2768\" class=\"size-large wp-image-2768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Saint-Cloud-soft-porcelain-trembleuse-cup-saucer-1700-1750-1024x512.png\" alt=\"Two Saint-Cloud soft porcelain trembleuse cup and saucer circa 1700-1750. Left: white and blue with godrons. Right: Chinese-style Prunus branches in semi-relief.\" width=\"1024\" height=\"512\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2768\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two Saint-Cloud soft porcelain <em>trembleuse<\/em> cups and saucers, circa 1700-1750. Saucer diameter in both cases: 12.7 cm. Left: white and blue with godrons (\u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/jm-bealu-et-fils\/\">JM B\u00e9alu &amp; Fils<\/a>). Right: Chinese-style prunus branches in semi-relief (\u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/galerie-verrier\/\">Galerie Verrier<\/a>).<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The latter option refers to the <em>trembleuse<\/em> cup as we know it today\u2014paired with a saucer featuring a central well several centimeters deep. At the <strong>S\u00e8vres porcelain manufactory<\/strong>, this design was originally documented as a <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sevresciteceramique.fr\/galerieshowroom\/les-univers-de-sevres\/product\/gobelet-enfonce-et-soucoupe-a-gaine.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><em>gobelet et soucoupe \u00e0 gaine<\/em><\/a> (tapered cup and socketed saucer). A prototype of this innovative drinking vessel\u2014shaped like a tumbler, which is also known as a <em>tasse \u00e0 la reine<\/em> (queen\u2019s cup)\u2014was created in 1752 by the <strong>Vincennes manufactory<\/strong>, before its incorporation into S\u00e8vres in 1756. The distinctive deep saucer was added in 1759.<\/p>\n<p>Louis XV\u2019s famed mistresses, Madame de Pompadour and Madame du Barry, were among its earliest admirers. Later, Louis XVI ordered 50 of them. The design was soon imitated by manufacturers in Berlin and Derby during the 1770s, and by Castelli around 1790.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2728\" style=\"width: 910px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Original-Sevres-goblet-and-sleeved-saucer-1759-and-trembleuse-1774-Arcanes-and-Antiquites-VB.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2728\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2728\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/04\/Original-Sevres-goblet-and-sleeved-saucer-1759-and-trembleuse-1774-Arcanes-and-Antiquites-VB.png\" alt=\"Two early S\u00e8vres trembleuses with high sleeved saucers. Top: Painted by Capelle, a model similar in shape to the original 1759 &quot;gobelet et soucoupe \u00e0 gaine&quot;. Bottom: A later model contemporary of Marie-Antoinette c. 1774.\" width=\"900\" height=\"900\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2728\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two early S\u00e8vres <em>trembleuses<\/em> with high-sleeved saucers. Top: Painted by Capelle, a model similar in shape to the original 1759 &#8220;<em>gobelet et soucoupe \u00e0 gaine<\/em>&#8221; (\u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/galerie-arcanes\/\">Galerie Arcanes<\/a>). Bottom: A later model with a lid contemporary to Marie-Antoinette with the same motifs as a <em>tasse litron<\/em> dated 1777 held by Le Louvre. (\u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/vb-antiquites\/\">Antiquit\u00e9s VB<\/a>).<\/p><\/div>\n<h2>Where to Serve Hot Chocolate: From the Cabaret Tray to the Cabaret Table<\/h2>\n<p>The chocolate (tea and coffee) sets we discussed earlier sometimes included <strong>a tray called a <em>cabaret<\/em><\/strong>, as the restaurant or tavern that used such trays. The second edition of the French Academy dictionary in 1718 recorded a new meaning for <strong><em>cabaret<\/em>: &#8220;A kind of small table or tray with raised edges, on which cups are placed for taking tea, coffee, etc.&#8221;<\/strong><\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2793\" style=\"width: 970px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Jean-Etienne-Liotard-pastel-The-Chocolate-Girl-circa-1744-Gemaldegalerie-Alte-Meister.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2793\" class=\"size-full wp-image-2793\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Jean-Etienne-Liotard-pastel-The-Chocolate-Girl-circa-1744-Gemaldegalerie-Alte-Meister.jpg\" alt=\"Close-up of the pastel on parchment by Jean-Etienne Liotard, The Chocolate Girl, circa 1744. Note the cabaret tray and the kakiemon trembleuse cup.\" width=\"960\" height=\"761\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2793\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Close-up of the pastel on parchment by Jean-Etienne Liotard (1702-1789), The Chocolate Girl, circa 1744. Note the cabaret tray and the Kakiemon <em>trembleuse<\/em> cup. <a href=\"https:\/\/skd-online-collection.skd.museum\/Details\/Index\/451033\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Gem\u00e4ldegalerie Alte Meister in Dresden<\/a> (Public Domain).<\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>The trays were first in lacquer imported from China or Japan<\/strong> and sold by the <em>marchands merciers <\/em>(To discover more about the <em>marchands merciers<\/em>, this profession essential to the development of French decorative arts in the 18th century, <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/porcelain-flowers-in-the-18th-century-to-embellish-the-everyday\/\">read this article about porcelain flowers<\/a>). Then, they were produced in France in varnished wood to imitate lacquer (<em>vernis martin<\/em>) and later metal or porcelain.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The <em>cabaret<\/em> table saw widespread production in the 18th century.<\/strong> It coincided with the development of small tables starting during the R\u00e9gence (seven years between Louis XIV and Louis XV).\u00a0 Such tables typically have cabriole legs. They could easily be moved around, for instance, set up for breakfast, then removed. The enthusiasm it inspired led to a proliferation of forms, making it one of the most elegant pieces of furniture of this period.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_2796\" style=\"width: 439px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Cabaret-table-with-removable-tray-circa-1745-Olivier-Ythurbide-Antiques.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-2796\" class=\"wp-image-2796\" src=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Cabaret-table-with-removable-tray-circa-1745-Olivier-Ythurbide-Antiques-731x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Louis-XV period cabaret table with a removable wood tray in red lacquer and side handles. Formerly in the Jacques Guerlain collection. \" width=\"429\" height=\"600\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-2796\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Louis-XV period cabaret table with a removable wood tray in red lacquer and side handles. Formerly in the Jacques Guerlain collection. \u00a9 <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/galerie\/ythurbide\/\">Olivier d&#8217;Ythurbide et Associ\u00e9<\/a><\/p><\/div>\n<h4>You May Like<\/h4>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/key.php?q=chocolati%C3%A8re\">Chocolati\u00e8re (Chocolate Pot)<\/a> | <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/key.php?q=mancerina\">Mancerina<\/a> | <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/key.php?q=tasse\">Tasses (Tea, Coffee, and Chocolate Cups)<\/a> | <a href=\"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/en\/key.php?q=cabaret+table\">Cabaret Table<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Discover the exquisite tableware and furniture designed for serving hot chocolate in the 18th century, and explore the fascinating history behind its expansion in France. This cross-cultural journey traces the path of American cacao to the tables of France, passing through Spain and shaped by the artistic influence of Chinese and Japanese porcelain and decorative arts. In Le D\u00e9jeuner, a 1739 painting by Fran\u00e7ois Boucher, a chocolate pot, delicate cups, and a graceful cabaret table take center stage. Two elegantly dressed women\u2014likely enjoying hot chocolate\u2014share the moment with their children. At that time, King Louis XV, then in the prime [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":2786,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[72],"tags":[45,97,82,89],"class_list":["post-2710","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-traditions-customs-influence-on-arts","tag-18th-century","tag-ceramics","tag-decorative-arts","tag-french"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2710","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2710"}],"version-history":[{"count":63,"href":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2710\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3099,"href":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2710\/revisions\/3099"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2786"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2710"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2710"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.proantic.com\/antiques-art-design-magazine\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2710"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}